Why Durres, Albania is Worth Visiting

Durres often gets overlooked, especially when compared to better known spots like Saranda or Vlore, but Durres has a lot more to offer than you might think. Sandy beaches, Roman ruins and a lively seaside – Durres is worth visiting.

Is Durres Worth Visiting?

I heard mixed things about Durres before I decided to go and see for myself. Like many travellers, I wondered if Durres was worth visiting.

What I found surprised me: an attractive and walkable city, ancient ruins, fantastic food, more cafes than Tirana, and friendly locals.

In fact, Durres turned out to be one of my favourite cities in Albania. It feels a lot more authentic than most of the other coastal destinations, and it’s a lot cheaper than Tirana, Saranda or Ksamil.

How to Get to Durres

The best way to get to Durres from Tirana is by bus or taxi. Durres is only 35 km from Tirana, so it’s easy and cheap.

Bus From Tirana & the Airport

Bus from Tirana: From the South North Bus Terminal buses run every 30 minutes between 6:00 am to 9:00 pm. The fare is 200 lek ($2.50 USD), which you pay in cash to the driver.

There is a bus from Tirana Airport to Durres. It leaves the airport every two hours from 10:00 am to 9:00 pm. The fare is 600 lek ($7 USD). Check the Tirana Airport website for the bus schedule.

Make sure you have cash to pay the fare. There are ATMs inside the airport by the baggage carousel.

Taxi from Tirana & the Airport

All Tirana taxis go to Durres. I used Taxi Lux, which I pre-arranged the day before (but you don’t have to). The flat rate from Tirana centre to Durres centre is 2200 lek ($26 USD).

Airport taxis charge 3000 lek ($35 USD). They are always outside arrivals. Rates are posted right inside the cab, so you won’t get ripped off.

Make sure you have cash because most drivers don’t accept credit cards. There are ATMs inside the airport by the luggage carousel.

By Ferry from Italy

There are ferries from Bari, Italy and Ancona, Italy to Durres. I’ve never done a crossing from Italy to Albania, (I have done the Corfu, Greece to Albania crossing), they’re long.

The Bari crossing is 7+ hours and the Ancona crossing is 16 hours. Lengthy, but a great option if you’re driving.

Check the Direct Ferries website for schedule and fare information.

Weather in Durres & When to Go

• The best time to go to Durres is shoulder season – April to mid June, September and October.
• Early spring (March) and late autumn (November) also very good, but a little cooler.
• Summers in Durres are very hot and can reach 40C (104F). This is also peak tourist season and everything is more expensive, which makes me wonder if it’s worth visiting Durres in summer.
• Winters are milder thanks to the coastal location. Temperatures range from 17C (63F) down to overnight lows of 0C (32F), with some rain. Durres is a great winter nomad spot due to the milder weather and lower costs.

Where to Stay in Durres

Durres has two main areas to stay in: the centre and Durres beach, which is 3 km from the centre. There is a beach area right in town, but it’s not a nice beach – not one you would want to swim in.

If you’re more interested in exploring Durres than being on the beach, stay in the centre. That’s what I did when I stayed in Durres, and I just walked or took the local bus to the beach.

 My top hotel recommendations in Durres are:

• Art Gallery Boutique Hotel: Lovely 4 star hotel in the centre of Durres. Rooms start from $90 USD, including breakfast. Excellent location for exploring Durres.
• Old Town Villa: Newer boutique hotel in the centre with free parking. Rooms from $55 USD (no breakfast). Within walking distance of all the sites.
• Cosmo Beach Hotel: Small beachfront hotel on Durres Beach. Rooms start from $85 USD, including breakfast. Lovely beachfront restaurant.
• Hotel Saly: Boutique property steps from Durres Beach. Rooms priced from $60 USD, including breakfast. Excellent value for Durres Beach.

What to Do in Durres

Durres doesn’t has as many things to do as Tirana, but it does have a few interesting ruins and of course the beaches. These are the most popular sites in Durres.

Explore History & Culture

Durres is the oldest city in Albania and one of the main reasons it’s worth visiting. It was founded in 627 BC by the Corinthians who came over from present day Greece.

• Durres Amphitheatre: The largest amphitheatre in the Balkans. The most popular attraction in Durres, with many tours stopping in Durres just for this site. It was built in the 2nd century AD by Roman Emperor Trajan.
• Venetian Watchtower: Built in the 14th century by the Venetians. The tower formed part of the medieval fortification wall that still partially surrounds Durres.
• Byzantine Market Square & Roman Baths: Remains of an ancient Roman market (6th century AD) and traditional baths (1st-2nd century AD). They are separate sites, but next to each other. Both are fenced off, but easy to see from the sidewalk.
• National Archeological Museum: It’s been closed for renovation since 2021, but could re-open anytime. Judging from Durres’ history, the museum probably has a great collection.

Enjoy the Beaches & Seaside

The beaches are why most people visit Durres. The centre has a seaside promenade, but the water is not good for swimming. The main swimming beaches are 5 km from the centre.

• Durres Beach: 5 km south of the centre. It’s a 10 km long beach, stretching all the way to Golem Beach. Walk the promenade and eat at one of the seafront restaurants. Easy to reach on foot or with the local bus.
• Currila Beach: 3 km north of the centre. A popular beach with locals. No bus service – you have to walk or take a taxi. There’s lots of beach restaurants and nightlife on the road to Currila Beach.
• Taulantia Promenade & Sfinksi: The seaside promenade in the centre. Short but pleasant enough with cafes and restaurants. Ends at Sfinksi, the pyramid looking platform on the water.

Savour Local Food

If you are a seafood lover, you’ll love Durres. Just about every restaurant serves fresh seafood, and it’s cheaper than Tirana or Saranda. In fact I often received complimentary bruschetta or fruit.

These are some of my favourite places to eat in Durres:

• Seafood: For terrific seafood and pasta off the beaten path eat at Bar Rosticeri Gazi. An excellent seafood shop is Peshk i Fresket Bracja 2, and they cook it for you.
• Traditional food: Enjoy simple but excellent home style cooking at Liriada Restaurant.
• Albanian ‘fast food‘: Fast food in Albania means gyro and byrek. I love Fast Food 1Maji on Rruga Kasem Durresi for gyro and Byreke Sivete Tradita for fresh byrek.
• Pastry shop: The best pastry shop in Durres is Pasticeri Pelikan. I can’t go there without buying (and eating) several sweets.

Day Trips & Nearby Attractions

There are several nice day trips from Durres. These are the ones you can actually do in a day!

Tirana: Albania’s capital is only 30 minute away by bus and well worth visiting. It’s a colourful and eclectic city, great for exploring on foot. Tirana’s sites are very central so you can cover a lot of ground in one day. Check out Bunk’Art 2, Skanderbeg Square and the Pyramid.

Golem: Have a beach day in the resort town of Golem. The beaches are quieter and cleaner than those in Durres. You can easily reach Golem by local bus, it’s only 12 km from Durres. Apart from the beaches there isn’t much to do, but if all you want is a nice beach it’s a great choice.

Kruja: One of Albania’s most important historic mountain towns, and it’s only 45 minutes from Durres by bus. There’s a 400 year old Ottoman bazaar, Kruja Castle and Skanderbeg Museum dedicated to the national. Kruja is beautiful and worth visiting.

Cape Rodon: A magical off the beaten path cape on the Adriatic. The little explored area has beaches, Rodoni Castle and historic St. Anthony Church. Think nature walks, secluded beaches and spectacular scenery. You’ll probably have to arrange for a private transfer or rent a car to get here.

If you don’t have a car, take this day tour to Cape Rodon that includes a stop at a local vineyard for winetasting:
Cape of Rodon and Wine Tasting Tour

Berat (UNESCO): This is the furthest away, but a must-see while in Albania. Known as the city of a thousand windows, Berat is a beautiful historic town with an Ottoman side and Christian side divided by a river. Berat Castle is a unique fortress where people still live today.

There are direct buses to Berat from the Durres bus station, and it takes 2 hours.

I did a day tour of Berat the first time I went and loved it so much I returned the following year for 5 days.

How Many Days do you Need in Durres

I spent nearly 2 weeks in Durres, but that’s mostly because I had my dog with me and was researching. 2-3 days is perfect for visiting Durres. You can see the sites in one day, head to Golem Beach for a day, and then have a day to cruise around and enjoy the cafe culture.

Want a longer trip? This 14-day Albania itinerary shows how to fit all the highlights in.

2-3 Day Durres Itinerary

You’ll cover all the highlights in this Durres itinerary:

• Day 1: Visit the Durres Amphitheatre, Venetian Watchtower, Byzantine Market Square, Roman Baths, the Great Mosque and Church of Apostle Paul and Saint Asti. Check out the mosaics at Martyrs’ Museum & Mausoleum. In the evening eat seafood and walk the Taulantia Promenade to Sfinksi.
• Day 2: Take the local bus to the little beach town of Golem. Enjoy the beach, and eat at one of the restaurants on the promenade.
• Day 3: See if the National Archeological Museum is open. Walk up Rruga Currila and have a drink or meal at one of the beachfront restaurants.

Where to go After Durres

After Durres you can head into northern Albania and visit the lovely lakeside city of Shkoder, the gateway to the Albanian Alps. The mountains of Albania are breathtaking. You’ll be blown away by the natural beauty. It’s easy to get to Shkoder from Durres.

If the ocean is more your speed, head south to Vlore from Durres, and explore the Albanian Riviera, often dubbed the Maldives of Europe. The drive along the coast from Vlore down to Ksamil is one of the most scenic in Albania.

Last Words on is Durres, Albania Worth Visiting

Durres is absolutely worth visiting. The city has a unique blend of history, beaches, and seaside charm. Add the easy access from Tirana and day trips to nearby highlights, and it’s a destination that deserves a spot on any Albania itinerary.

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