Highlights of Albania Two Week Itinerary – With & Without a Car

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Albania is a country that seems to have it all: a stunning alpine region, historic villages, incredible beaches, Byzantine ruins, even a thriving viticulture. This two week itinerary will take you through all of it, so you can experience the best of Albania!

You can follow this two week itinerary by renting a car, or using the Albania bus system. I’ve explored both ways, and will show you exactly how to do it, with and without a car.

If you’ve been considering Albania, go now! While it’s still one of Europe’s under the radar travel destinations, that’s starting to change fast. Word is getting out just how stunning Albania is.

Highlights of Albania Two Week Itinerary – With & Without a Car

It’s not hard to travel around Albania, and you don’t have to rent a car. Thanks to decades of communist rule when citizens weren’t allowed to own vehicles, Albania has an excellent, though dated, bus system.

Renting a car will give you more freedom and the ability to easily explore sites away from towns and cities, but it’s not necessary. You don’t have to have a car to do this 14 day Albania itinerary.

Two Week Albania Itinerary Summary

  • Day 1 – 3: Shkoder (day trip to Theth, Shala River)
  • Day 4 & 5: Berat (day trip to Osumi Canyon)
  • Day 6 & 7: Gjirokaster (day trip to Benja Hot Springs & Permet)
  • Day 8 & 9: Saranda (stop at the Blue Eye, day trip to Butrint & Ksamil)
  • Day 10 & 11: Himare (explore coastal towns)
  • Day 12 – 14 : Tirana (day trip to Kruje)

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Best Time to Visit Albania

Shoulder season is the best time to visit Albania: May 15 to June 30, and September 1 to October 15. The weather is pleasant, and it’s not as crowded or expensive as in summer.

blooming jasmine bushes on Tirana street
Jasmine blooming in Tirana in April

Spring is also very nice (April to May 15). All the almond trees and jasmine are blooming, and the air smells amazing. It’s my favourite time to visit Albania, though the sea is still a bit cool for swimming. And hardly any tourists!

July and August are peak season. Temperatures can reach 40 C (104 F), it’s busy, and more expensive. If you are planning to travel during summer, book your hotels and car rental well in advance.

Winters in Albania can be cold and rainy, and there will be snow in the alpine region. It can be nice, but I wouldn’t want to be on the mountain roads at that time.

Renting a Car in Albania

Renting a car is a great way to see Albania. I love the freedom of having a car, and being able to experience the country from the ground up.

Despite the reputation Albanian drivers have of being aggressive, I don’t think they are any worse than other Mediterranean countries. I found driving in Albania easier than other Mediterranean countries.

Same goes for the roads. While some are in better shape than others, generally speaking they are pretty good – especially the numbered ones.

Searching for affordable car rental in Albania?

I’ve had good experience using DiscoverCars to hire from a local agent. Prices start from just $18 USD/day.
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Before you rent a car, here’s what you should know:

  • Most rental agencies require drivers to be between 21 and 70.
  • An international driver’s license is not required if your driver’s license is in English.
  • Driver’s license, passport and credit card are required.
  • Car rental agencies will hold an amount to cover the deposit and insurance deductible. The amount varies, but it could be $1000 USD. This hold will be released when you return the car undamaged.
  • Make sure you get unlimited mileage. This is a road trip and there will be lots of driving!
  • A 4WD or SUV is convenient, but not necessary.
  • Running lights must be kept on all the time in Albania – it’s the law.
  • Drive on the right side of the road.
  • Watch the speed limits. It’s 40-50 km/hour in urban areas, 80-90 km/hour on highways and 110/km hour on motorways.
  • Get a local sim so you use Google maps directions. Vodafone is the best.

Skip ahead to the 14 day Albania itinerary

Getting Around Albania by Bus

Despite the bus system being dated, it does work. Albania has a very extensive bus network, and once you know a couple of things it’s easy to go anywhere you want.

Berat mini bus at North South Bus Station in Tirana, how you'll move around on this two week Albania itinerary
A typical furgon at Tirana’s South North Bus Terminal

This is the best website for bus schedules and routing: https://travel.gjirafa.com/en

Buses may not adhere exactly to the schedule (they’ll leave when full, even if before departure time, and make unscheduled stops to drop off and pick up passengers), but it’s close enough to give a very good idea.

Always buy your ticket from the driver, in cash, not online. Buses are often passenger vans or min-buses (furgons). Go early so you can get a seat, and in case it leaves early.

Smaller towns and cities may not have a ‘bus station,’ but they always have a designated corner or spot they leave from. Ask a local where the bus stop is.

Give yourself extra time if doing this two week Albania itinerary by bus. Traffic and unscheduled stops often make journeys longer.

Highlights of Albania Two Week Itinerary

If you’re flying, you’ll be arriving in Tirana. Get some cash at the airport ATM because you’ll need it for incidentals and the bus (if you’re not renting a car). Albania is a cash first society.

This two week itinerary goes from north to south Albania. If you’re driving, pick up your car in Tirana and head north to Shkoder. From Shkoder you’ll start moving south, revisiting Tirana at the end when you can drop off the car on day 12.

map of two week Albania itinerary
This 2 week itinerary starts in the north of Albania and moves all the way south before heading back to Tirana at the end

Day 1 – 3 Shkoder (Teth & Lake Koman)

Using Shkoder as your base, you’ll explore the beautiful alpine village of Theth, Lake Koman and the Shala River, known as the Thailand of Albania.

elevated view of Shkoder, the starting place for the two week Albania itinerary
Shkoder is known as Albania’s bicycle city because so many locals bike everywhere

While most visitors use Shkoder as the gateway for exploring the Albanian Alps, Shkoder is a worthwhile destination on its own. It’s the oldest city in Albania and the historic capital.

How to Get to Shkoder from Tirana

By Car: Pick up your rental and make your way to Shkoder. It’s mostly highway all the way from Tirana.

Part of it will be the A1, the toll highway. It starts about 20 km north of Tirana, but you’ll only be on it for a short while. You’ll need cash (lek) for the toll. It will be less than 200 lek ($2.40 USD).

Shkoder is 80 km from Tirana, the drive takes about 1.5 hours.

By Bus: It’s easy to get to Shkoder by bus from Tirana. From the airport there’s the Hermes shuttle bus, with several daily departures. They charge 1000 lek ($12 USD). There’s also a shared taxi service TOTA, with prices from 2000 lek ($24 USD).

There are many buses throughout the day from Tirana’s South North Bus Terminal, and several from the East Gate bus station. Cost is 500 lek ($6 USD), paid in cash to the driver. It takes 2 hours.

Optional Stops on the way to Shkoder:

Kallmet Winery: One of Albania’s best vineyards is on the way to Shkoder (with a small detour). They are open to visitors all year.

Lezhe: Small city on the Drin River and a perfect place to stop for lunch. Eat at Bistro Serrani overlooking the river. Walk along the riverfront promenade or explore Lezhe Castle.

Day 1: Explore Shkoder

Explore Albania’s traditional capital, Shkoder today. This is a vibrant small city with a great mix of beauty, culture and history.

  • Rozafa Castle: Originally built in the 4th or 3rd century BC, the castle is Shkoder’s most famous site. Lovely location overlooking the city. It’s 3 km from the centre, either drive or take the local bus.
  • Site of Witness & Memory: Museum dedicated to victims of the brutal communist regime in a building used as a prison.
  • Marubi National Museum of Photography: Located in a historic building, the museum is one of Shkoder’s best.
  • Old Town Shkoder: Rruga Kole Idromeno is the heart of Shkoder’s old town, a quaint area with cafes, shops and restaurants.
  • Saint Francis Church: Catholic church known for its anti-communist paintings inside.
  • The Nativity of Christ Cathedral: One of the largest Orthodox churches in Albania.  
  • Ebu Bekr Mosque: An imposing mosque built in 1994 after the fall of communism. Known as the Great Mosque of Shkoder, it was built on the site of a historic mosque which was destroyed by the communist regime.

Day 2 Shkoder: Day Trip to Theth

Theth is an extremely scenic mountain village in the Albanian Alps, and a stop here is essential on a two week itinerary. The drive from Shkoder is one of the most magnificent mountain drives I have ever seen.

The village is part of Theth National Park and has great hiking trails, including the famous Theth – Valbona trail through the mountain pass.

Hike to Syri i Kalter, or Grunas Waterfalls and enjoy the stunning alpine scenery. Enjoy a meal at Gurra Family Restaurant or Villa Gjecaj Restaurant before heading back to Shkoder.

How to Get to Theth from Shkoder

By Car: Take the SH21 highway from Shkoder. It’s 80 km in distance and will take 2 hours.

By Bus: Take the bus from Hotel Rozafa in Shkoder. It departs at 7 am and takes 3 hours. A one way ticket is 1200 lek ($14.50). The bus departs Theth from the Mini Market Jezerca at 11:00 am and 5:00 pm.

You can find the bus information on the Ferry Berisha website.

Day 3 Shkoder: Koman Lake & Shala River

Taking the ferry from Koman Lake up the Shala River will probably be one of your more memorable Albania memories on this two week itinerary. I’ve done this journey, and it really is stunning.

The Shala River originates in the mountains, and its crystal clear water feeds into Koman Lake. The river is often dubbed the Thailand of Albania because of the towering limestone cliffs on both sides.

If the weather is warm, bring a suit and towel so you can go for a dip.

Book your ferry ticket (with optional pick up from Shkoder) at Berisha Ferries Shala River Ferry website.

How to Get to Koman Lake from Shkoder

By Car: The Koman Lake ferry terminal is in the town of Koman, just under a 2 hour drive from Shkoder.

By Bus: There is a mini-bus that departs from the Rozafa Hotel at 6:45 am for Lake Koman and leaves Koman at 3:45 pm. The drive takes about 2 hours and costs 800 lek ($9.60 USD) each way.

Here’s the Ferry Berisha website with bus information.

Where to Stay in Shkoder

Try to stay in the centre near Sheshi Demokracia (Democratic Square), so you can explore the sites of Shkoder on foot. This is also near the historic centre. These are well located and excellent hotels in Shkoder:

Luxury hotel: Hotel Colloseo
Mid-priced hotel: Hotel Mozart
Budget hotel: In Town Guest House Shkoder
Hostel: Scodrinon Hostel

Where to Eat in Shkoder

I recently spent over two weeks in Shkoder trying different restaurants. These are my favourite places to eat in Shkoder:

  • Puri: Local favourite for traditional food. Simple but very good.
  • Genti Breakfast & Restaurant: Popular breakfast and all day restaurant serving traditional foods. Try Albanian pancakes here, petulla.
  • Vila Bekteshi: Atmospheric restaurant serving Albanian dishes and excellent pasta. Nice outdoor terrace.
  • Kanelle: Coffee shop well known for homemade desserts.

See my complete guide to Shkoder to help you plan your trip.

Day 4 & 5: Berat (Osumi Canyon)

Spend the next 2 nights in Berat (UNESCO), the city of a thousand windows. With cobbled streets, a hilltop castle, ancient churches and Ottoman style houses on the hillsides, it’s a charming town.

bridge and house in Berat
View of Berat from the Gorica Bridge

Berat is my favourite Albanian city in this two week itinerary. I first visited Berat as day trip and realized I wanted to come back for longer. A year later I returned and stayed 5 nights. It’s that charming!

How to Get to Berat from Shkoder

By Car: It’s a 3 hour drive from Shkoder to Berat, just under 200 km. Start early so you can take your time and make an optional stop at Cobo Winery.

The drive is mostly highway, and partly on the A1 motorway, a toll road. Make sure you have lek for the toll – it will be less than 200 lek ($2.40 USD).

By Bus: There is no direct bus from Shkoder to Berat, you will have to change buses in Tirana. To make your life easier, take a Shkoder-Tirana bus that goes to Tirana’s South North Bus Terminal. That is the same bus station the Berat buses leave from.

The Shkoder-Tirana South North buses start around 11:30 am. The earlier ones go to Tirana’s East Gate bus station. Double check on this website and confirm with the bus driver in Shkoder.

The Shkoder-Tirana bus is 500 lek ($6 USD), and the Tirana-Berat bus is 600 lek ($7.20 USD). Make sure you have cash to pay the drivers. The journey will take 5+ hours.

Optional Stop on the Way to Berat: Cobo Winery

Cobo Winery is one of Albania’s best wineries, and it’s on the way to Berat. In fact, there are several vineyards in the Berat region. You can take a wine tour and do a tasting at Cobo.

Day 4: Explore Berat

Berat is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and charming small city with a historic Ottoman side (Mangalem Quarter) and Christian side (Gorica Quarter). The Osum River runs through Berat, separating the two areas.

You’ll probably get in later in the day, so explore the castle and save the rest of the sites for the next day.

  • Berat Castle: One of Albania’s largest fortifications, still mostly intact. Within the castle walls visit Holy Trinity Church, St. Mary of Blachernae Church (stunning frescoes), and Onufri Iconographyc Museum.
  • Mangalem Quarter: Explore the windy cobblestone lanes of this historic Ottoman area. Visit the Lead Mosque and Gate of the Pasha. Mangalem is below the castle, so walk through there after the castle if you have time.
  • Ethnographic Museum: Set in a historic home, the museum highlights the culture and traditions of Berat.
  • St. Michael’s Church: Historic Orthodox church perched above the Gorica Quarter. It’s a short hike uphill. Wonderful views.

Day 5 Berat: Excursion to Osumi Canyon

Start the day by visiting Osumi Canyon, known as Albania’s Grand Canyon. Osumi is a spectacular river gorge that is 13 km long. You can hike a perimeter walk (18 km – not recommended in summer), or drive the paved road on the east side.

If you don’t have a car, I highly recommend booking a tour for this one. While not absolutely necessary, it will be much easier to explore the canyon.

Book this highly rated day tour to Osumi Canyon from Berat that includes Bogove Waterfall

Once you return to Berat, explore the sites you didn’t get to the day before.

How to Get to Osumi Canyon from Berat

By Car: Osumi Canyon starts just south of the town of Corovode, which is an hour’s drive from Berat. Follow the main road straight down beside the Osumi River.

By Bus: There are several buses each day to Corovode, the nearest town to Osumi Canyon. From Corovode it’s still about 8 km.

Where to Stay in Berat

Berat isn’t that big, but staying very central is always a good idea so you can easily explore on foot. These are the hotels I recommend in Berat:

Luxury hotel: Hotel Plaza Berat
Mid-priced hotel: Beratino Hotel
Budget hotel: Hotel Ajka
Hostel: Hanna’s Hostel

Where to Eat in Berat

Berat has quite a few beautiful restaurants that serve traditional Albanian food. My favourites Berat restaurants are:

  • Homemade Food Lili: Eating here is a cultural experience. Lili and his wife prepare all the food in their home and the dining room is their garden. It’s an intimate place with shared tables. Call ahead to make a reservation.
  • Taverna Panorama: Traditional restaurant outside of the tourist zone.
  • Bibo Bar: Pizza, desserts and coffee.

Day 6 & 7: Gjirokaster

Today you’ll visit Gjirokaster, an enchanting medieval stone city and UNESCO World Heritage Site. The historic centre is beautifully preserved, and home to a 12th century castle and Ottoman era bazaar.

old market in Gjirokaster, Albania
Ottoman bazaar in Gjirokaster

How to Get to Gjirokaster from Berat

By Car: The distance between Berat and Gjirokaster is 186 km. The drive takes about 2 hours.

By Bus: There is one bus daily at 2:00 pm from Berat to Gjirokaster. The bus takes about 3 hours and cost 1000 lek ($12 USD).

Day 6 & 7: Explore Gjirokaster

  • Gjirokaster Castle: 12th century castle with a military museum and spectacular views of the town and mountains.
  • Ottoman Bazaar: Historic market first established in the 17th century. It’s beautifully restored. Lots of restaurants, cafes and shops. Very charming.
  • Skenduli House: Traditional 300 year old Ottoman house. The grandest home in Gjirokaster, still owned by the Skenduli family.
  • Ismail Kadare House: The childhood home of Albania’s most famous and revered writer.
  • Ethnographic Museum: Birthplace and family home of Albania’s communist dictator, Enver Hoxha. The current home was rebuilt in 1966 after a fire destroyed the original. Apparently many items in the museum were confiscated from local families during communism.
  • Cold War Tunnel: Huge underground bunker built by the communist regime in the 1960s.

Day 7 Gjirokaster with a Car Option: Day Trip to Benja Hot Springs & Permet

If you drove to Gjirokster you may have time to visit the Benja Hot Springs. They’re an under the radar attraction, well known to locals but not many tourists.

The springs are a series of mineral pools known for their healing qualities. They’re located beside the historic Kadiu Bridge. You can continue to walk further up stream to Langarica Canyon which is a nice hike.

You’ll have to go through the town of Permet. This would be a great spot to have a meal and enjoy the slow food scene that Permet is known for. Trifilia and Sofra Permetare are both excellent.

Where to Stay in Gjirokaster

Gjirokaster is quite small. As long as you’re staying in the town you’ll be able to walk everywhere. These are well located hotels:

Mid-priced hotel: Hotel Gjirokastra
Mid-priced hotel: The Stone Sky Hotel
Budget hotel: Guest House Mele

Where to Eat in Gjirokaster

There are several very good restaurants in Gjirokaster. These are the ones I like:

  • Corner of Bazaar: Excellent traditional restaurant with lovely outdoor terrace and mountain views. Make a reservation – this place gets busy.
  • Vojsava Restaurant: Traditional food on one of the lovely cobbled streets in the Old Town. Lots of vegetarian options.
  • Zahire: Beautiful location next to the Bazar Mosque. Very atmospheric – great for a romantic dinner. Mix of traditional dishes and pasta. Opens early for breakfast.
  • Antigonea 2000: Very good bakery with pastry, ice cream, cookies, croissant and coffee.

Day 8 & 9: Saranda (Syri i Kalter, Butrint & Ksamil)

Finally, you’re heading to the Albanian Riviera! This is one of the most stunning regions of Albania. Start in Saranda, a beautiful small city on the Ionian Sea.

view of Saranda town coast
Saranda on the Albanian Riviera

Saranda is actually an expat favourite, with many nomads calling it home for several months each year, including me.

How to Get to Saranda from Gjirokaster

By Car: It’s an easy drive down to Saranda. It’s just under 52 km. On your way stop at Syri i Kalter, it’s only a very slight detour.

By Bus: There are several buses daily from Gjirokaster to Saranda. It’s an hour’s journey, and it cost 500 lek ($6 USD).

Some of these buses stop at Syri i Kalter (the Blue Eye), but not all – inquire ahead of time. To get to Saranda from Syri i Kalter you’ll take the same bus, but verify the timings.

You could also just visit Syri i Kalter as a day trip from Saranda. There’s a bus from the centre that goes there and back.

Stop at Syri i Kalter on the Way to Saranda

Syri i Kalter is one of Albania’s most famous natural attractions. It’s a freshwater spring with such vivid colours it resembles a human eye.

Divers have only been able to reach a depth of 50 metres because of the immense water pressure, so nobody knows how deep it is.

Day 8: Explore Saranda

Saranda doesn’t have a lot of sites, the real pleasure of the city is in enjoying the seaside location. The best things to see in Saranda are:

  • Lekuresi Castle: Built in 1537, the castle is mostly famous for the spectacular sunset views over Saranda and the sea. Come early to get a good seat and order a drink.
  • Beachfront Promenade: A lovely 2 km seaside promenade. Lots of restaurants and cafes. Limani Bar Restaurant has great tables on the water.
  • Synagogue Basilica ruins: The site of a 5th century synagogue, later converted into an Orthodox basilica. A bit underwhelming, but free.
  • Era Beach: The nicest beach in Saranda. I like casual Shark Bar on that beach. You’ll have to pay for a sunbed and umbrella.

Day 9 Saranda: Day Trip to Butrint National Park (UNESCO) & Ksamil

Butrint National Park is one of the most unique sites in Albania, and ruins like these give real depth to a two week itinerary. It’s a rare combination of archeological history and nature. UNESCO calls it “a microcosm of Mediterranean history.”

Butrinti National Park
The Great Basilica in Butrint was built in the 6th century AD

It’s a huge national park with fantastic ruins from several eras. Very worth seeing. I took my dog there and he loved the nature and trails, and I loved the ruins.

Ksamil is Abania’s famous beach area, the reason why the Riviera is called the Maldives of Europe. These beaches are one of Albania’s most famous things to do and a must on any two week itinerary.

Personally, I find Ksamil over commercialized, but the beaches are great for an afternoon to cool off.

Butrint National Park and Ksamil are very close to Saranda, and near each other.

How to Get to Butrint National Park & Ksamil from Saranda

By Car: It’s really easy to get to both from Saranda. Just take the coastal highway all the way to the end. That’s where Butrint National Park is. You’ll drive through Ksamil. It’s 18 km from Saranda.

Go early because the traffic can be terrible. On the way back, stop in Ksamil.

By Bus: There’s a bus that goes to Butrint and stops in Ksamil on the way. It leaves from the bus stop across the street from the Synagogue Basilica ruins on Rruga Skenderbeu in Saranda.

Go to Butrint first, and then take the same bus to Ksamil after.

I’ve taken this bus, and it gets super crowded in summer with everyone heading to Ksamil. Go early. Fare is 200 lek ($2.40 USD). Take the same bus back to Saranda after. There are several bus stops along the main road in Ksamil.

Where to Stay in Saranda

It’s best to stay in the centre of Saranda, behind the main bit of the promenade, or in the Kodra area behind the port.

I would avoid that southward strip along Rruga Butrinti along the promenade unless you’re off season. During summer that area is traffic congested and crowded.

Luxury hotel: Hotel Vale
Mid-priced hotel: Titania Hotel
Budget hotel: Vila Konomi

Where to Eat in Saranda

There’s a lot of seafood in Saranda, and it’s very good. These are my favourite places to eat in Saranda:

  • Peta Jon: Byrek shop that also has sandwiches and Greek style pastry.
  • Taste of Tradition: Excellent cafeteria style eatery specializing in traditional Albanian dishes. An expat favourite.
  • Taverna Oxhaku: Grilled foods, some traditional dishes and seafood. I think they have the best kalamari in Saranda.
  • Rozmarine: Best place for a nice dinner. Specializing in fresh seafood.
  • Limani: Great spot for coffee or a drink. They have the best waterfront location on the promenade.

Day 10 & 11: Himare (Coastal Towns)

Himare is further up the coast, much smaller and quieter than Saranda. It’s one of the most culturally Greek towns in Albania. You’ll hear just as much Greek on the streets as Albanian. I much preferred Himare to Ksamil.

Himare main waterfront road
The start of the beachfront promenade in Himare

How to Get to Himare from Saranda

By Car: Drive straight up the coast on the SH8. It’s a scenic drive, one of the best in Albania. The distance is 56 km and will take just over an hour.

By Bus: There are lots of daily buses. Most of them will be going on to Vlore, but will drop you in Himare if you ask. The fare is 800 – 1000 lek ($9.70 – $12 USD), and it takes 1.5 hours.

Day 10: Explore Himare

  • Beaches: Spille Beach and Prinos Beach are in town, Livadhi and Llamani are nicer, but 4 km from town.
  • Himare Castle & Old Town: Historic old town with castle and great mountain views. Very charming. It’s 2 km uphill from the centre. I took a cab there for 500 lek ($6 USD).
  • Boat Tours: Tours to secluded beaches. The boat tour stands are along the promenade in front of Spille Beach.
  • Waterfront Promenade: Lots of restaurants, bars and cafes – where most of the activity is.

Day 11: Explore the Coast

If you’ve got a car you can visit secluded beaches like Gjipe, Jale, or more popular Borsh. Explore Porto Palermo Castle, coastal villages like Qeparo Fushe, Lukove, Vuno or Dhermi. This is one the most beautiful areas of Albania.

There’s more information on these towns in my Albanian Riviera Guide.

If you’re doing this by bus, I would pick one coastal town (Dhermi or Borsh would be good options), and take one of the buses that is going in the direction you are (Vlore bus for Dhermi and Saranda bus for Borsh).

Drivers are happy to let you off en route if you tell them in advance. It’s common practice in Albania. To return to Himare you’ll have to ask the driver or the locals about when and where to get the bus.

Where to Stay in Himare

Himare is very small. I like staying on the side where Spille Beach is (as opposed to the side where Prinos Beach is). That’s the best spot for being near everything. These are well located hotels:

Luxury hotel: Rea Boutique Hotel
Mid-priced hotel: Guesthouse 1932
Budget hotel: Ylli’s Rooms

Where to Eat in Himare

Himare has terrific seafood and Albanian and Greek dishes. These were my favourite spots:

  • Himara 28: Upscale beachside restaurant. Excellent food.
  • Lefteri’s Tavern: Traditional taverna with home style food. I had really good moussaka here.
  • Meraklis Fast Food Grill: Great spot for a quick gyro.
  • Pasticeri Delight: Wonderful pasty shop that also serves coffee. Open early at 7 a.m.

Day 12 – 14: Tirana (Kruja)

You won’t need a car to explore the capital, so consider dropping it off. You can take a taxi or the airport shuttle to head back to the airport. Tirana is very walkable and best explored on foot.

aerial view of Tirana
Tirana’s skyline is changing with many architecturally unique towers

Tirana is a small and quirky capital famous for its cafe culture, radical new towers and fantastic street art. Base yourself close to Skanderbeg Square to be close to the sites.

How to Get to Tirana from Himare

By Car: It’s about a 4 hour drive from Himare. The first part is nice along the coastal highway and through the Llogara Pass which has spectacular views.

By Bus: There are several daily buses to Tirana from Himare. They depart from Riviera Tours and cost 1500 lek ($18 USD). If the bus stops in Vlore the journey is 5 hours. It’ll be shorter if it skips Vlore.

You’ll arrive at the South North Bus Terminal in Tirana. You can take the no. 5B bus to the centre. It leaves from across the street.

Day 12: Explore Tirana

These are the best things to see in Tirana. They are all within walking distance of each other.

  • Skanderbeg Square: Tirana’s largest square, the unofficial centre of the city, and where all major public events happen.
  • Et’hem Bey Mosque: One of Albania’s oldest mosques. Beautiful frescoes inside. Located in Skanderbeg Square.
  • Bunk’Art 2: Actual bunker of the former communist regime, now a museum dedicated to the victims of communism. A must-see site to understand Albania’s brutal dictatorship.
  • Pyramid of Tirana: Very unique pyramid structure originally built as the mausoleum for the former dictator, but now public space.
  • Blloku Neighbourhood & Enver Hoxha’s former home: Trendy area which was off limits to Albanians during communism. The former dictator’s home is in the neighbourhood.
  • Namazgah Mosque: Beautiful mosque – one of the largest in the Balkans.

Day 13 Tirana: Day Trip to Kruja

Kruja is a historic mountain town, only 40 km from Tirana. To get to Kruja from Tirana, take the Kruja bus from the South North Bus Terminal.

old town street in Kruja
Street in the historic centre of Kruja

Albania’s national hero Skanderbeg was born in Kruja, and there’s a fantastic museum dedicated to him. Explore the Castle of Kruja, the 400 year old Ottoman bazaar, the Ethnographic Musem and eat the local specialty dessert, kabuni – one of Albania’s tradtional foods.

When I did this day trip, it took me 8 hours from when I left my Airbnb to when I returned, using public buses and the furgon to get to Kruja. And I did a lot of exploring, visited hotels and had a slow lunch.

Day 14: Depart Tirana

If you have time before you leave, you can visit House of Leaves, Resurrection of Christ Cathedral, or Shtepite Studio Kadare-Agolli (former apartments of Ismail Kadare and Dritero Agolli).

Take time to experience the coffee culture, or just walk the streets and admire the unusual architecture and street art.

Where to Stay in Tirana

There are lots of great hotels and guesthouses in Tirana. If you’re only there for a couple of days, stay in the centre, close to Skanderbeg Square. I like these hotels in Tirana:

Luxury hotel: Maritim Hotel Plaza Tirana
Mid-priced hotel: Hotel Colosseo
Budget hotel: Albanopolis
Hostel: Red Goat Hostel

Where to Eat in Tirana

There are some great places to eat in Tirana. Tirana has excellent seafood (it’s only 35 km from the coast) and Albanian dishes. Some of my favourite restaurants are:

  • Era Picera: Traditional restaurant in the Blloku neighbourhood.
  • Oda Restaurant: Lovely traditional restaurant near Pizari i Ri (don’t confuse it with Oda Garden Restaurant).
  • Detari Fish: Excellent fish restaurant about a 15 minute walk from Skanderbeg Square.
  • Tony’s Coffee Shop & Restaurant: Tex-Mex and American style food (and good breakfasts). Next to the Pyramid.

Practical Tips for Travel in Albania

  1. Carry cash: Albania is a cash first economy. Some places do accept credit cards, but not everywhere and not smaller vendors. Always have cash on hand.
  2. Euros are not accepted everywhere: Some vendors like tour agencies and taxis at the airport take euros, but there is no guarantee.
  3. Withdraw lek from ATMs: For the best exchange rates select the ‘without conversion’ option. ABI machines have the lowest withdrawal charges of 500 lek ($6 USD).
  4. Get a local SIM card: Vodafone and One Albania are the two major carriers. Vodafone has the best coverage. There’s a kiosk at Tirana Airport, and just about every town has a Vodafone shop.
  5. You can’t drink the tap water: It’s fine for brushing teeth, washing fruit, or boiling pasta, but not advisable for drinking. Most shops sell 6 or 7 litre bottles, as well as the smaller ones.
  6. You can’t flush toilet paper: There’s always a bin beside the toilet.
  7. Albania is very safe for tourists: Petty crime is rare, and female travellers overwhelmingly report feeling safe (this has been my experience also).
  8. Check this website for bus schedules and routing: https://travel.gjirafa.com/en
  9. Learn basic Albanian phrases: A little Albanian goes a long, long way.
  • Pershendetje – Hello (formal)
  • Faleminderit – Thank you
  • Ju lutem – Please
  • Po / Jo – Yes / No
  • Me Fal – I’m sorry/Excuse me
  • Uje – Water
  • Kafe – Coffee

FAQs About Albania Two Week Itinerary

These are common questions travellers have about doing a two week itinerary in Albania:

Is 2 weeks too long in Albania?

Two weeks in Albania is not too long an itinerary. There is a lot to see and do, including an alpine region, long coastline, historic and natural attractions, and a wine region.

How many days in Albania is enough?

For most visitors 14-21 days in Albania is enough.

Is Albania cheap?

Compared to western Europe, and other Mediterranean countries, Albania is cheap. But prices are rising, and it’s not the super cheap destination it was a few years ago.

Is Albania friendly to Americans?

Yes, Albanians are very welcoming to Americans. In general, Albanians are very hospitable, including to tourists of all nationalities.

Last Words on Highlights of Albania Two Week Itinerary – With & Without a Car

Whether you’re driving yourself or hopping on buses, this two week highlights of Albania itinerary is designed to give you the best mix of mountains, villages, history and beaches. It covers must-see destinations and sites, giving you a real feel for the country.

With a car, or without a car you can manage this two week itinerary at your own pace, and see why Albania is about to become the next big destination in Europe.

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