Winter in Albania: What Locals Recommend & Where to Go

BySuzanne Hooker Posted Updated
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Albania as a serious winter destination had never occurred to me until I visited Korce in late autumn. So many locals told me there were lots of European tourists in winter (especially the French), and it was actually the best time to visit!

As a Canadian, I’m always looking for ways to avoid winter. But knowing how mountainous and picturesque the country is, winter in Albania makes sense.

Albania also has a Riviera on the Ionian Sea – putting that part of the country in the Mediterranean climate zone. While some parts of the Riviera completely shut down off season, there are a couple of spots that are year round and popular with expats.

Winter in Albania

Most travellers come to Albania for the beaches and mountain hiking, but locals say winter is magical and just as beautiful. I haven’t visited Albania in winter yet, but I’ve gathered recommendations from locals to give you a realistic idea of best places to go and what to expect.

The truth is, with the exception of two or three destinations, there is little winter tourism in Albania – at least not yet. That’s mostly because the infrastructure isn’t there.

Why Visit Albania in Winter

So if you’re willing to brave colder temperatures, these are the advantages of visiting Albania in winter:

  • Not many tourists: Albania doesn’t get mass tourism like its Mediterranean neighbours even in summer, and winter has even fewer tourists.
  • Lower costs: You can enjoy off-season pricing. Hotels, flights and even restaurant meals are cheaper. Hotels are often less than 50% of the summer rate.
  • Authentic experiences: You’ll experience the real Albania that few tourist get to see.
  • Atmosphere: December and most of January are very atmospheric. This is a festive season and you can expect lots of decorative lights, Christmas markets and fire places with mulled wine.
  • Mediterranean climate on the Riviera: The Albanian Riviera has warmer temperatures. It’s a popular destination with nomads looking for longer stays.

Winter Destinations in Albania

The truth is there’s only a few places visitors should travel to in Albania during winter: the Riviera, Tirana, Korce, Berat, Gjirokaster and a handful of alpine villages.

The most popular villages of Theth and Valbona are not a great idea for a couple of reasons: most residents leave over winter (so nothing is open), and the driving conditions can be unpredictable and treacherous.

Tirana – Albania’s Capital

Albania’s capital is a good choice for a winter city break. There are Christmas markets, a big New Year’s Eve concert in Skanderbeg Square, and lots of performing arts.

Try the local specialties at Tirana’s restaurants, and sample Albania’s excellent wine (yes, Albania has a thriving and very old viticulture).

There won’t be any line ups for Tirana’s sites, and you’ll have no problem getting a hotel room (with heat). Tirana is also very walkable with loads of cafes.

These are my favourite Tirana hotels:

Here is a more detailed guide on where to stay in Tirana.

Razem – Northern Mountain Village near Shkoder

If you were hoping to visit Theth or Valbona in winter, Razem is a better and safer alternative. It’s higher altitude so gets the snow, but is a lot closer to Shkoder than Theth or Valbona, and the road is usually plowed.

King Zog (the self proclaimed king of Albania in the 1930s), tried to turn Razem into a mountain resort town. That didn’t really go anywhere, but it’s still a super pretty town and great for enjoying the snow views for the day.

It’s 40 km from Shkoder, so base yourself there and visit Razem for the day.

My favourite Shkoder hotels:

Korce – Albania’s Cultural City

Korce is often referred to as Albania’s cultural city and having spent 10 days there myself, I can see why.

For one thing, it’s beautiful. I’m pretty sure Korce is the most beautiful non-UNESCO city in Albania. The centre feels very European with grand old mansions, tree lined boulevards and parks everywhere.

In the snow Korce looks magical with its cobblestone streets and mountain views. Stroll through the Ottoman bazaar with a glass of traditional raki, or enjoy a fireside hot cocoa in your guest house.

If you’d like to know more, read my Korce travel guide.

Mario of Explore Korca Tour Guide, recommends using Korce as a jumping off point to visit the villages of Dardhe, Sinica, Arrez and Voskopoja. These villages are hugely popular in winter, but small. Most visitors prefer to base themselves in Korce.

These are my favourite Korce hotels:

Here is a more detailed guide on where to stay in Korce.

Dardhe – Mountain Village with Skiing

A favourite winter destination of Albanians, Dardhe is an extremely picturesque mountain village. It’s beautiful year round, but with the snow it looks like a fairy tale.

Visitors can ski at the Biggel ski resort, which has several short and not challenging runs. Perfect for beginners and young children, but definitely underwhelming for anyone experienced.

Dardhe is only 18 km from Korce. My advice is to stay in Korce and visit Dardhe for the day.

Voskopoja – Most Beautiful Winter Village

Another famous mountain village near Korce, Voskopoja is bigger than Dardhe. Besides natural beauty, it has more to offer in terms of cultural history with beautiful Orthodox churches from the 17th and 18th centuries.

Try the lakror at Hotel Bacelli – they’re famous for it.

Locals seem to prefer Voskopoja over Dardhe for a cultural day trip, and Dardhe more for the skiing and snowboarding.

It is possible to say in a guest house in Voskopoja, but Albanians recommend staying in Korce and visiting Voskopoja for the day.

See how I fit Voskopoja into this 3 day Korce itinerary.

Berat – Beautiful Historic Town (UNESCO)

The old town of Berat is one of the most beautifully preserved in Albania with cobblestone streets, Ottoman era homes, ancient mosques and Byzantine churches. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Overlooking the town from the hilltop is Berat Castle, one of the oldest continuously inhabited castles in Europe.

Deciding between Tirana or Berat for your winter stay? My detailed comparison will help.

While Berat doesn’t receive as much snow as Korce, it does get some in January and is unbelievably pretty. Not all restaurants and guest houses will be open, but you’ll have the sites of Berat to yourself. As one local suggested, it’s a great time to go wine tasting and visit the Christmas market.

My favourite hotels in Berat:

Here is a more detailed guide on where to stay in Berat.

Gjirokaster – Historic Mountain Town (UNESCO)

Known as Albania’s city of stone for the slate-roofed houses, cobblestone streets and historic castle, Gjirokaster is one of Albania’s most popular mountain towns.

December is particularly lovely with the Gjirokaster Christmas market.

It’s a little further south, so doesn’t always have snow, but there would be snowy views of the surrounding mountains. It gets very crowded in summer, so winter would be peaceful and nicer for exploring.

Best hotels to stay at in Gjirokaster:

The Albanian Riviera: Saranda and Vlore

If your goal is to escape winter altogether, the Albanian Riviera may be exactly what you’re looking for.

Blessed with a Mediterranean climate, the Riviera stays reasonably warm all winter with temperatures generally between 12 C (53 F) to 18 (64 F) in January and February, the coldest months.

Saranda is a small city, built around the Ionian Sea. It’s very nice and hugely popular in summer. Vlore is a bit larger than Saranda. It has less of a holiday feel, but some expats prefer it.

Vlore is more of a year round destination, while in Saranda half the restaurants and hotels close over winter. Whether you choose Vlore or Saranda, both are becoming popular nomad destinations outside of peak summer months.

My favourite hotels in Saranda:

Here is a more detailed guide on where to stay in Saranda.

My favourite Vlore hotels:

Theth and Valbona: Why They Aren’t a Good Idea in Winter

Theth and Valbona are the most famous alpine villages in the Albania Alps. They are great to visit in summer and autumn, especially for hiking, but getting to either in winter can be challenging.

The roads aren’t always cleared of snow, and it’s all mountain driving. Locals put chains on their tires in winter – that’s the kind of snow and winter driving conditions we’re talking about.

Both Valbona and Theth virtually shut down in winter, with most restaurants and guest houses closing. Residents leave and head to Shkoder until spring.

So while it is possible to visit Theth and Valbona in winter, I don’t recommend it. If you really want that winter alpine village experience, head to Razem instead.

Weather in Winter

This varies depending on where you go. But unless you’re headed to the Riviera, it will be cold and you’ll need warm clothes – winter clothes. Winter can be damp, and the heating isn’t always reliable.

It’s also the wettest season in Albania, so pack an umbrella and bring lots of socks.

Tirana: Average daytime highs are 15 C (59 F) and overnight lows of 6 C (42 F), with some rainy days. It usually doesn’t snow.

Shkoder & Razem: Shkoder experiences average daytime highs of 11 C (51 F) and overnight lows of 3 C (37 F). Razem is a couple of degrees cooler than Shkoder.

Korce: Average temperatures in the daytime are highs of 7 C (44 F) and overnight lows of 0 C (32 F), with some snowy or rainy days.

Berat: Average daytime highs are 15 C (57 F) with overnight lows of 3 C (37 F), and some rainy days. It will snow if there’s a cold snap.

Gjirokaster: Average daytime highs are 12 C (54 F) and overnight lows of 2 C (35 F), with some rain. It doesn’t usually snow, but you will probably see snow on the surrounding mountain peaks.

Saranda & Vlore: Average daytime highs are 15 C (59 F) and overnight lows of 5 C (41 F), with some rainy days. It doesn’t snow.

Last Words on Winter in Albania

There is a lot to enjoy about Albania in winter. Lower prices, no tourists, Christmas markets, and a more authentic experience. Albania under a blanket of snow is incredibly beautiful too.

But be realistic when choosing your destination. While the Instagram photos of pretty mountain villages covered in snow look like a fairy tale – getting there may be anything but. Keep in mind small villages or towns may not have restaurants or guest houses open in winter, and if you find one that’s open inquire about heat.

So yes, go to Albania in winter because you’ll see a side that most visitors don’t, but choose your destination wisely.

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Suzanne Hooker

Suzanne Hooker is the owner and author of Albania Voyagers, a blog that helps travellers plan a trip to Albania. Suzanne spends months living in and travelling around Albania each year. When she isn't exploring and writing about Albania, she is slow travelling through other parts of the world with her dog, Watson.

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