Visit Gjirokaster: Guide to Albania’s Stone City (2026)

Known as Albania’s city of stone for the slate-roofed houses, cobblestone streets and historic castle, a visit to Gjirokaster is a must if you are in southern Albania.

Gjirokaster is one of Albania most important historic towns, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. I visited Gjirokaster as a day trip from Saranda. I loved wandering the cobbled streets, exploring the castle and taking in the history.

If you’re trying to decide between Gjirokaster or Berat, read about which one is better here.

Visit Gjirokaster: Guide to Albania’s Stone City

In this guide I’ll share everything you need to know to plan your visit – from how long to stay, what not to miss, where to eat, where to sleep and where to go after Gjirokaster.

Want a longer trip? This two week Albania itinerary shows how I fit Gjirokastër in.

Is Gjirokaster Worth Visiting?

Gjirokaster is a must visit for anyone in the region, and very easy to reach from Saranda. Not only is it a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it has a beautiful and well preserved centre, 12th century castle and Ottoman era bazaar.

It’s also culturally significant as the birthplace of Enver Hoxha (Albania’s communist dictator) and Ismail Kadare, the most revered and famous writer in the country.

Exploring the patterned cobblestone streets and lanes of the historic centre feel like stepping back in time hundreds of years. Whether you visit for a day trip or overnight, Gjirokaster is an excellent excursion.

Where is Gjirokaster, Albania?

Gjirokaster is a town in the region of southern Albania. The closest main city is Saranda, 34 km away. The town is situated along the slopes of the Gjere Mountains overlooking the Drino River valley. It is very picturesque!

A Brief History of Gjirokaster

Gjirokaster is a very old city. Officially it was founded in the 12th century, but recent archeological finds show it may have been inhabited as far back as the 5th century BC. There are evidence of fortifications from pre Roman, Byzantine and medieval periods.

In the 15th century, Gjirokaster came under Ottoman rule and developed into a thriving regional center. In the 19th century Ottoman ruler Ali Pasha of Tepelena expanded the castle and built an aqueduct, parts of which can still be seen today.

How to Get to Gjirokaster

You can reach Gjirokaster by car or bus. When I visited I booked a private taxi for the day and stopped at Syri i Kalter before returning to Saranda. The cost for the return trip including stops was 11,000 lek ($132 USD). Not bad as it was basically the whole day.

Bus

From Saranda there are direct buses twice a day to Gjirokaster at 10:00 am and 2:15 pm. The fare is 500 lek ($6 USD). The return is at 1:45 pm and 5:00 pm. It takes just over an hour.

I recommend you verify the departure times at the bus ticket office in Saranda. It’s located at the corner of Rruga Onhezmi and Rruga Falmurit (behind the Basilica Synagogue ruins). I’m not certain if this bus runs off season.

Don’t want to worry about logistics? Take this highly rated day tour from Saranda of Gjirokaster that visits the Blue Eye and several other sites:
Blue Eye and Gjirokaster Day Tour

From Tirana there are many daily buses to Gjirokaster from the South North Bus Terminal. The fare is 1200 lek ($14.50 USD) and the ride is about 3.5 hours.

Taxi (private transfer)

From Saranda the taxi fare is 6000 lek ($72 USD). A return trip would be at least double, and you should verify cost and how much waiting time in Gjirokaster it includes. I use Saranda Eco Taxi for these types of trips from Saranda. When I visited Gjirokaster I had my dog with me, so this is how I did it.

From Tirana the one way fare is 17,000 lek ($204 USD). I don’t recommend doing Gjirokaster as a day trip from Tirana. It’s a 3 hour drive one way. I use Taxi Lux for transfers from Tirana.

Rental Car

Renting a car is a great idea if you want to explore the region around Gjirokaster. Albania is full of incredible natural beauty, and with a car you’ll have total freedom to explore.

The roads are generally pretty good in Albania, especially if you stick to the numbered highways. Once you get off those you can run into some gravel and potholes. I’ve found the driving in Albania pretty easy.

How Long Should You Stay in Gjirokaster?

You should plan on a full day, but overnight would be even better. Gjirokaster is small, but there’s quite a bit to see. If you want to visit some of the sites around Gjirokaster plan on 2 nights.

If you’re travelling from Tirana then definitely stay overnight. It’s a 3 hour drive one way.

Things to Do in Gjirokaster

1. Gjirokaster Castle

This in the number one attraction of Gjirokaster and rightly so. The castle dominates the mountain skyline and has spectacular views of the town and valley.

Originally built in the 12th century, it was expanded during the Ottoman period. Inside there’s a military museum, old prison cells and armaments. I enjoyed the outside section of the castle more and the views of the watchtower and mountains.

2. Old Bazaar

The Ottoman bazaar is the heart of Gjirokaster. It dates back to the 17th century, and is now beautifully restored with patterned cobblestone streets and all kinds of restaurants, cafes and shops. It’s touristy, but still charming and well worth seeing.

Insider Tip: Stop at the Tourist Information Centre on Rruga Ismail Kadre by the bazaar for maps and information on the town, such as special events that may be going on.

3. Skenduli House

One of the best preserved Ottoman era houses, Skenduli House is more than 300 years old and much of it is original. It is the grandest home in Gjirokaster and is still owned by the Skenduli family.

During the communist dictatorship the home became the ethnographic museum, but after the fall of the regime ownership reverted back to the Skenduli family.

4. Zekate House

A huge Ottoman mansion that resembles a mini-fortress, Zekate House is worth it just for the amazing views of the town and the Drino River Valley. It was built in 1811 for Beqir Zeko and has remarkable frescoes and a grand reception room.

5. Ismail Kadare House

Ismail Kadare is Albania’s most famous and revered author. Visitors can wander through his childhood home in Gjirokaster, which he wrote about in his novel “Chronicle in Stone.” The home was built in 1799 and was declared a cultural monument in 1991.

If you’re a fan of the author, his former apartment in Tirana is now a museum. It’s one of the unique things to do in Tirana.

6. Ethnographic Museum

The museum is on the site of Enver Hoxha’s (the former communist dictator) former home and birthplace. It was built in 1966 after a fire destroyed the original home.

It’s modeled after typical Gjirokaster homes and filled with traditional items exemplifying Gjirokaster’s history and culture. I read somewhere that the items in the ethnographic museum were confiscated from local families during the communist regime.

I preferred Zekate House and Skenduli House – they felt more authentic, but I still enjoyed this museum.

7. Cold War Tunnel

Hidden beneath the castle is a huge bunker built in the 1960s to protect the communist leadership in case of invasion or nuclear attack. There are over 50 rooms in the bunker and it’s 800 metres long.

If you’ve seen Bunk’Art 1 in Tirana, you know how eery and extensive these bunkers can be. Very interesting, but not for anyone claustrophobic.

8. Gjirokaster Obelisk

A short uphill walk from the bazaar is the Memedheu ABC (Motherland ABC). The obelisk is at one of the highest points in Gjirokaster, so the views are fantastic.

The monument celebrates the Albanian language, and is built close to the site of the first Albanian school in Gjirokaster. At that time it was very dangerous to teach in Albanian since it was not permitted under Ottoman rule, but Albanians held on to their language.

9. Saint Sotir Church Ruins

Located near the castle is this 17th century Orthodox church. It was heavily damaged during communism, but lately there’s been some restoration work.

It was locked up when I went by, but I’ve heard you can ask at the Tourist Information Centre to get a look inside. There’s supposed to be beautiful icons and a pantrocrator dome.

10. Ali Pasha Bridge

A 2 km hike from the centre of Gjirokaster is a beautiful Ottoman era aqueduct that once supplied water to the castle. It was built in the 19th century and bridges the valley, making a spectacular sight. Daring visitors can cross it on foot.

The hike to the bridge is uphill, so go early and bring water.

11. National Folk Festival

Every 5 years Gjirokaster hosts one of Albania’s most important folk festivals. The last one was held in June 2023.

The festival is held at the castle and attracts international attention for the unique iso-polyphonic singing, which is on the UNESCO intangible heritage list.

The next festival will likely be in 2028. Visiting Gjirokaster during the festival would be an unforgettable experience.

12. Christmas Festival

I know winter isn’t when most visitors come to Albania, but if you find yourself in Albania in winter, visit the Gjirokaster Christmas Festival.

The stone city looks magical lit up with Christmas lights. Shop for handmade items, try local food and drinks, and enjoy live music.

Festivities usually run from early to mid December until January 8th, just after Orthodox Christmas.

What to See Near Gjirokaster

This is a very scenic region of Albania, and full of Byzantine, Roman and Greek ruins. If you have a car you can easily explore these gems.

Apart from Butrint National Park, these are all less than one hour from Gjirokaster.

Viroi Lake

Viroi Lake is only 4 km from Gjirokaster, so you could even walk here. It’s a local favourite for the peaceful scenery and nature.

Like Syri i Kalter (the Blue Eye), Viroi Lake is fed from an underground karst and it’s believed the lake may be connected to Syri i Kalter and other lakes through a series of underwater caves.

Antigonea Archaeological Park

About 11 km east of Gjirokaster are the ruins of an ancient city from the 3rd century BC, Antigonea.

This is one of Albania’s largest and most prosperous ancient cities, and the park covers an area of 45 hectares. It hardly gets any tourists, and is beautiful and peaceful.

Theater of Hadrianapolis

The ruins of a 4th century AD amphitheatre which was part of an ancient Greek town founded in the 5th century BC. Other ruins at the site are Roman baths, a necropolis and temple.

It’s just off highway SH4 beside the town of Sofratike, 14 km from Gjirokaster.

Syri i Kalter (the Blue Eye)

One of Albania’s most amazing natural phenomena, this freshwater spring gets its name from the vibrant colours of the water, which resemble a human eye. Syri i Kalter is at least 50 metres deep, but nobody knows the true depth.

I stopped here on my way back to Saranda from Gjirokaster, it’s about a 45 minute drive.

Butrint National Park (UNESCO)

Butrint National Park is one of Albania’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites. It’s an 86 square km nature reserve which includes Greek, Roman, Byzantine and Venetian ruins going back to 800 BC.

It’s a very unique and special site. UNESCO calls it “a microcosm of Mediterranean history.” Out of these excursions, this one is the furthest afield, but worth the drive.

From Gjirokaster it’s 80 km and about 1.5 hours drive. Butrint is much closer to Saranda and Ksamil, so if either of those are on your Albania itinerary, just visit Butrint from there.

Food & Where to Eat in Gjirokaster

Gjirokaster has some unique dishes you won’t find anywhere else in Albania.

Traditional Foods to Eat in Gjirokaster:

• Qifqi: Herbed rice balls that are cooked in a special pan (a qifqi pan). It’s usually an appetizer. This is the most famous dish of Gjirokaster.
• Lakrori me thember: Savoury pie made with filo dough and a filling of meat and vegetables. It has a braided or knotted edge.
• Byrek qahi: Byrek filled with a mixture of spinach, egg and cheese.
• Shapkat: Cornmeal casserole with spinach, leeks or wild greens (also called pispili in other parts of Albania). The dish originated in Gjirokaster.
• Oshaf: Sweet custard made of sheep’s milk and dried figs, baked in the oven and finished with a criss-cross of cinnamon.

Where to Eat in Gjirokaster:

• Corner of Bazaar: Excellent traditional restaurant with lovely outdoor terrace and mountain views. Good vegetarian options also. Make a reservation – this place gets busy.
• Vojsava Restaurant: Traditional food and excellent service on one of the lovely cobbled streets in the Old Town. Lots of vegetarian options.
• Zahire: Beautiful location next to the Bazar Mosque. Very atmospheric – great for a romantic dinner. Mix of traditional Albanian foods and pasta. Opens early for breakfast.
• Antigonea 2000: Very good bakery with pastry, ice cream, cookies, croissant and coffee.

Where to Stay in Gjirokaster

When you visit Gjirokaster it’s best to stay in the historic centre, but not right by the Ottoman Bazaar. That is the busiest tourist area of town.

These are very well located hotels and guest houses:

• Hotel Gjirokastra: Lovely boutique property in a traditional Ottoman style mansion steps from the museum and castle. Doubles from $65 USD, including breakfast. Large rooms and a swimming pool make this a good choice for families.
• The Stone Sky Hotel: Excellent small hotel in the Old Town. Doubles from $60 USD, including breakfast. Beautiful terrace with mountain views.
• Guest House Mele: Beautiful guest house located in the Old Town, but away from the busy tourist zone. Doubles from $45 USD, including breakfast. Swimming pool. Peaceful location with views.

Where to Go After Visiting Gjirokaster

Saranda, Ksamil, Permet and Korce are great places to visit after Gjirokaster. They’re all in southern Albania and won’t take long to reach. You can get to them by bus or car.

Saranda and Ksamil are on the coast, Permet and Korce are inland.

Saranda

Saranda is considered the capital of the Albanian Riviera. It’s a small but pretty seaside city hugging the Ionian Sea. It’s a complete change of pace from Gjirokaster with its laid back Mediterranean vibe, seafront promenade and beaches.

In summer it’s busy, so book a place to stay in Saranda before arriving. Shoulder season is the perfect time to visit, when many nomads choose Saranda as a slow travel destination.

Saranda is a great base for visiting Ksamil and Butrint National Park.

Ksamil

Ksamil is the beach paradise of Albania. If all you want to do is beach hop and eat and drink by the beach, Ksamil is perfect. Apart from Butrint National Park, there’s no real cultural sites in Ksamil or nearby.

It used to be considered a hidden gem, but that is no longer the case. Ksamil is crowded in the summer and the most expensive holiday destination in Albania – but compared to other Mediterranean hotspots, it’s still a bargain.

Permet

Roughly 1.5 hours away, Permet is a small town known for its wine, slow food, and stunning mountain scenery. Benja Thermal Baths and Lengarica Canyon, two of the best things to see in Albania, are very nearby.

Permet is busier in summer during peak season, but in general this area is off the beaten path and well worth exploring. The whole area along the southern border with Greece is beautiful and has a lot of history.

Korce

Known as Albania’s cultural capital, Korce is a charming small city, easy to explore and off the beaten track.

Korce is famous for its beautifully restored historic bazaar, and for beer! Korce is home of Birra Korca, Albania’s oldest and most famous beer brand. Visit the Birra Korca factory and do a tasting in the beer garden, which also happens to be one of the best places to eat in Korce.

It’s 189 km from Gjirokaster and the drive is just under 4 hours. Stop at Permet on the way for a break. This part of Albania does not get the attention it deserves – which is great for anyone willing to explore it.

If you’d like to know more, read my Korce travel guide.

Last Words on Visiting Gjirokaster: Albania’s Stone City

A visit to Gjirokaster is a must if you are in southern Albania. Not only is the stone architecture unique, it’s an important historical town, cultural destination and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

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