Is Shkoder Worth Visiting if You’re Not Hiking?
Shkoder is well known as the gateway to the Albanian Alps, and the jumping off point for the famous Theth – Valbona hike. But Shkoder is worth visiting even if you aren’t going into the mountains. It’s the historic capital of Albania and a worthwhile destination on its own.
Is Shkoder Worth Visiting if You’re Not Hiking?
Yes! I spent 2 weeks in Shkoder exploring and getting a feel for the city. While I don’t suggest you stay in Shkoder for 14 days, I did really like the city and think it’s worth visiting. See my guide to Shkoder.
Most visitors head south to the Albanian Riviera, but northern Albania has some spectacular scenery and isn’t as busy as the south.
Shkoder is only 80 km from Tirana, so it’s easy to add into an itinerary, like this Albania two week itinerary.
Why Shkoder is Worth Visiting
Shkoder is worth visiting because it’s different from other Albanian cities.
For starters, it’s the country’s historic capital and one of the oldest continuously inhabited places in the Balkans, dating back to the 4th century BCE.
But what I noticed immediately was how bike friendly Shkoder is. Everyone seems to have a bicycle. The city is flat, there are bike lanes on most of the main roads, and you’ll see rental and repair shops everywhere. Some Albanians call it the Amsterdam of Albania.
The entrance to my Airbnb building and all the landings were full of bicycles. Every shop and park had bikes parked in front. I rented one myself and biked to Shkodra Lake, to have the real local experience!
Another thing that surprised me was the number of churches. I haven’t heard so many church bells in any other Albanian city. It reminded me more of being in Italy or Greece.
Then there’s the natural setting. Shkoder sits beside Lake Shkodra, the largest lake in the Balkans, with mountains all around and three rivers flowing together at its edge. All that nature at your doorstep!
And of course, the food. Shkoder’s cuisine is hearty and comforting. Lots of stews, grilled meats, and casseroles. I was even served beef goulash for breakfast once (it came with the eggs).
The history, bikes, church bells, landscapes and food make Shkoder feel wonderfully unique and absolutely worth a visit.
Where is Shkoder?
Shkoder is in north western Albania, very close to the border of Montenegro. It’s only 100 from the capital city Tirana, so easy to get to.
It’s located at the base of the Albanian Alps, with Shkodra Lake and the Adriatic Sea on its south and south-west side.
How to Get to Shkoder
Shkoder is the largest city in northern Albania and easy to get to.
From Tirana
There are buses from Tirana’s South North Bus Terminal and East Gate Terminal. Fare is 500 lek ($6 USD), and it takes 2 hours.
Check the Gjirafa Travel website for bus schedules, but buy your tickets in cash from the bus driver. Buses may not adhere strictly to the schedule (they generally leave when full), but it will give a very good idea. There’s pretty much buses every hour during the day.
From the Tirana Airport, you can take the Hermes Airport Shuttle. They leave from the far side of the parking lot outside arrivals. Cost is 1000 lek ($12 USD). There are about 5 departures daily.
I missed the last Hermes shuttle when I went to Shkoder, and ended up taking a taxi from the airport. It cost 7000 lek (85 USD), and got me to my Airbnb in Shkoder in less than 1.5 hours.
From Theth
There are passenger vans (furgons) that depart from the Mini Market Jezerca at 11:00 am and 5:00 pm daily. It cost 1200 lek ($14.50) and takes about 2 hours to reach Shkoder.
You can find the bus information on the Ferry Berisha website.
From Montenegro
There are daily buses from Podgorica, Budva and Kotor, Montenegro to Shkoder. Check the Gjirafa Travel website for bus schedules, but buy your tickets at the station or from the bus driver.
There aren’t any buses from Bar, Montenegro to Shkoder, but it is possible to take a private transfer (taxi) from Bar to Shkoder.
A private transfer is about 6500 lek ($80 USD). I recommend booking this advance, as drivers need special insurance to cross the border. You should also confirm the price ahead of time.
How Many Days Do You Need in Shkoder?
You could easily see Shkoder’s sites in a couple of days. If you plan to visit Lake Komani, add an extra day (I highly recommend doing this, the scenery is spectacular and it’s an easy day trip from Shkoder).
Of course you can spend longer in Shkoder – I was there for two weeks, but you don’t need to.
Things to Do That Make Shkoder Worth Visiting
These are the best things to see in Shkoder, and what make the city worth visiting:
- Rozafa Castle: Ruins of a 3rd or 4th century castle on a hilltop overlooking the city, Lake Shkodra and the confluence of 3 rivers. This is Shkoder’s most popular attraction.
- Old Town: Quaint historic area with cobblestone streets, lots of cafes and restaurants. The main pedestrian road goes through the centre, Rruga Kole Idromeno.
- Site of Witness and Memory: Museum dedicated to the Shkoder victims of communism. It’s located in a former Ministry of Interior building used as a prison and detention centre.
- Shkodra Lake: One of the largest lakes in Europe, it is a nature reserve and an easy 2 km hike or bike ride from the centre. There’s a couple of small towns on the lake where you can have a meal or something to drink.
- St. Francis Church: Historic church with a series of anti-communist paintings. The Franciscan priests were imprisoned during communism and got their revenge with the paintings.
- Free Walking Tour: It’s a great way to get acclimated and see the highlights. I booked my Shkoder free walking tour through GuruWalk.
Where To Stay
It’s best to stay near Democratic Square or the historic centre (aka Old Town). That way you can walk everywhere.
The historic centre can be noisy at night, so avoid staying right on Rruga Kole Idromeno (the main pedestrian street and centre of Old Town).
I always stay in Airbnbs (because I’m usually in one location for weeks and have my dog with me), but I did tour these properties and saw them first hand:
Hotel Colosseo: 4 star hotel with excellent location across the street from the Grand Mosque on Rruga Kole Idromeno. This hotel is considered the best in Shkoder. Rooms start from $115 USD, including breakfast and parking. One of the few hotels with an indoor pool.
Cocja Boutique Hotel: Lovely small hotel in the centre. Within a 5 minute walk of the historic area and most sites. Rooms start at $70 USD, including breakfast and parking. Beautiful and stylish property.
In Town Guest House Shkoder: Exceptional family run guest house in the historic centre. The guest house is in two restored heritage homes. Doubles start at $40 USD, with breakfast. Amazing location on a quiet street in the historic centre.
Scodrinon Hostel: The best hostel in Shkoder. Wonderful location directly on the main pedestrian street in Old Town. Breakfast is included and guests have access to a kitchen and washing machine. Beds start at $18 USD. Terrific views from the rooftop terrace.
Where to Eat
I found the food in Shkoder very hearty. Lots of grilled meats, baked casseroles, soups and traditional vegetable dishes.
These were my favourite places to eat in Shkoder:
- Puri: Simple, home style Albanian cooking. Lots of salads, hearty casseroles and meats. There’s usually a line up.
- Pasta te Zenga: Really good pasta – they make it fresh every day.
- Te Nana: Pasta, traditional Albanian food. Away from the tourist zone and popular with locals.
- Marina Seafood by 4VM: Great seafood restaurant with very fresh fish. I had baked carp here, the local specialty. The carp comes from Shkodra Lake.
- Kanelle: Excellent coffee shop with homemade sweets and savoury snacks. It became a regular stop for me.
Where to Go Next
These are the best places to go after Shkoder. – They’re all close, easy to get to from Shkoder and worth seeing.
Theth
Theth is a small mountain village, well known for hiking. There are numerous trails, including the famous Theth – Valbona mountain pass hike.
It’s a pretty village with a couple of sites, but it is primarily a hiking town. I don’t recommend coming here unless you plan to do some hiking.
I went to Theth after leaving Shkoder. It’s about a 2 hour drive. The drive from Shkoder to Theth has some of the most spectacular mountain scenery I have ever driven through.
Tirana
Albania’s capital city is one of my favourite European cities. It’s small, very walkable, quirky, and has a great cafe culture. There’s enough things to do in Tirana to keep you busy for a few days, without feeling rushed.
It’s also budget friendly compared to other European capitals.
Tirana is only 98 km south of Shkoder, a 2 hour journey if taking the bus. When I drove to Shkoder from Tirana it took 1.5 hours.
Durres
This is a good alternative to Tirana. Durres is the second largest city in Albania, but has a much more laid back feel.
Because of its location on the Adriatic coast it’s full of palm trees, sidewalk cafes and has Venetian and Roman ruins, including the largest amphitheatre in the Balkans. There’s decent beaches just outside the centre, and it’s also very budget friendly.
Durres is 110 km south of Shkoder, and you can be there in less than 2 hours by car. I spent 10 days in Durres and really enjoyed the city.
Montenegro
Montenegro is very close to the northern Albanian border and Shkoder. Bar, Budva, Kotor and Podgorica are all within a few hours drive.
Having spent a month in Budva, Montenegro exploring the area, I can tell you Montenegro is a surprisingly beautiful country. If you haven’t been this would be a great opportunity.
Kotor is where many visitors go, but I loved the less touristy Budva with its historic walled centre and ocean front location.
Prizren, Kosovo
Prizren is a beautiful, historic, riverfront city. I spent 5 days there after visiting Theth. I had to drive back down to Shkoder to get there from Theth.
There’s a picturesque old town, hilltop fortress, Ottoman era bridges, beautiful mosques and churches. Well worth a visit and easy to get to from Shkoder, though lots of mountain driving.
Because Serbia does not recognise Kosovo’s borders (if coming from Serbia you have to enter and exit Kosovo through Serbia), the easiest way to visit Prizren is from Albania. You can even use your Albanian sim card in Prizren.
Just be aware it is mountain roads almost the entire way between Shkoder and Prizren. Beautiful scenery, but lots of switchback and windy turns.
Last Words: Is Shkoder Worth Visiting if You’re Not Hiking?
Yes, Shkoder is a nice city and worth seeing, even if you’re not using it as a base to get into the Albanian Alps for hiking. It’s surrounded by natural beauty, and different from other Albanian cities with its biking culture and number of churches.
