How to Travel From Shkoder to Theth in 2026
It’s easy to travel from Shkoder to Theth. They are only 80 km apart and well connected. You can get to Theth by bus, taxi (private transfer), renting a car and driving (that’s what I did), or on a guided tour from Shkoder.
Even though Theth and Shkoder aren’t far apart, the journey takes 2 hours because of the mountain driving. The good news is the road is now fully paved, making the drive much easier.
How to Travel to Theth from Shkoder
A lot of visitors use Shkoder as the jumping off point for exploring the Albanian Alps or doing the Valbona Pass trail, so there’s plenty of transport options between Theth and Shkoder.
If you’re looking for information on visiting Shkoder, my Shkoder guide has all the important stuff.
Shkoder to Theth by Bus
There are two daily mini buses from Shkoder to Theth, at 7:00 am and 2:00 pm. The buses leave from outside the Rozafa Hotel on Rruga Teuta. The cost is 1200 ($14.50 USD), and the trip takes about 2.5 hours.
The bus is operated by Berisha Ferry. I recommend booking your ticket online to ensure you get a seat. If not, you can buy a ticket from the bus driver in cash (lek).
If you don’t find the bus on the same side of the road as the Rozafa Hotel, check across the street. When I took the Berisha mini bus to Komani Lake, the bus was on the other side of the street.
Shkoder to Theth by Taxi (Private Transfer)
Most taxis in Shkoder do intercity transfers, essentially a private transfer. I recommend arranging this a day or two in advance.
Check with a local company like Elektrik Taxi. The cost will be about 10,000 lek ($122 USD), and the drive takes 2 hours.
You can also check with Taxi Landi to see what they would charge. I’ve used Taxi Landi a couple of times, and they’re reliable and pet-friendly.
Renting a Car and Driving to Shkoder
The drive to Shkoder is 80 km and about 2 hours. It’s a straightforward drive – SH1 to Koplic (I stopped there for coffee), then SH21 all the way to Theth.
SH21 is now fully paved and in good condition. The views of the Accursed Mountains are insane! It’s a very scenic drive.
Make sure you gas up before leaving Shkoder. I didn’t see many gas stations along the way.
There’s a few places to stop for coffee and food along SH21, but they don’t start until you’re about halfway there. I stopped at the first one I saw, but then there were a bunch more after that. Bar Restorant Kapllaj has excellent reviews.
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Shkoder has several car rental agencies, and I used DiscoverCars.com to find one. I rented a small SUV which was perfect for my road trip with the dog, my friend and our luggage.
If you’re nervous about driving in Albania, don’t be. I’ve rented cars and driven quite a bit around Albania. For the most part the roads are in good shape (as long as you stick to the main ones), and Albanian drivers are courteous.
Take a Detour to Mesi Bridge
On my way to Theth I took a detour to see the Mesi Bridge. It’s 8 km from Shkoder so not a big detour, and it’s worth seeing.
Mesi Bridge was built in 1770 as part of the road that crosses the Kir Valley and goes all the way to Pristina in present day Kosovo. It’s a gorgeous Ottoman bridge and you can still cross it on foot.
You can see how I fit Shkoder, Theth and the Mesi Bridge into this Albania two week itinerary.
Shkoder to Theth by Guided Tour
If you don’t want to worry about logistics or stay overnight in Theth, take a day tour to Theth from Shkoder.
It’s better to stay at least overnight in Theth, but if that’s not possible a day tour is good option. Theth is worth seeing, it’s a beautiful and unique mountain village.
I recommend this highly rated day tour from Shkoder that includes the village of Theth and short hikes to Grunasi Waterfalls and the Blue Eye of Theth.
How to Return to Shkoder from Theth
Bus: There are two buses daily, at 11:00 am and 5:00 pm from outside the Mini Market Jezerca in Theth. Cost is 1200 lek ($14.50). It arrives at the Rozafa Hotel in Shkoder and takes about 2.5 hours.
You can find the bus information on the Ferry Berisha website.
Taxi (private transfer): Make these arrangements in advance, as the taxi will probably have to come from Shkoder. I did not see one single taxi in Theth.
Self-drive(rental car): Leave early enough so you don’t have to drive in the dark. The mountain road from Theth and much of the highway back to Shkoder is not lit.
Best Time to Visit Theth
Shoulder season is the best time to visit Theth: May to June and September to October.
Summers can be very hot and busy with hikers. Winters are not advisable as most guest houses and restaurants are closed, and the driving conditions may be hazardous (snowy).
Theth is not a practical winter destination. If you want to visit Albania in winter, a better mountain village near Shkoder is Razem.
This complete guide to Theth has more information to help you plan your trip.
What to Do in Theth
Theth is a small village and there aren’t a lot of attractions as such. Theth is famous for its beauty, mountain scenery and hiking – those are the main reasons to visit.
Here’s what to see and do in Theth:
- Church of Theth: Built in 1892, this lovely stone church is the most famous landmark in Theth. It’s still active and open for Catholic mass.
- Reconciliation (Lock-in) Tower: Traditional stone tower, known as a kulla. It’s one of the few remaining in northern Albania that is still in good condition.
- Village of Theth: Stroll through the back lanes of the village. There is pastoral charm and mountain views everywhere you look. The scenery is stunning.
- Grunas Waterfall: The small waterfall is a short hike from the village (about 45 minutes each way).
- Blue Eye of Theth (Syri i Kalter Kaprre): The Blue Eye is a natural spring pool and waterfall. Swimming is permitted, but the water is freezing. You have to hike there – 10 km from the village of Theth, or 2 km from the village of Nderlysaj.
- Thethi Zipline & ATVs: 1200 metre zipline over the river, valley and village. Can also rent ATVs here.
- Valbona Pass Hike: A 17 km point to point hike connecting Valbona and Theth. It is part of the Peaks of the Balkans transnational trail.
- Villa Gjecaj Restaurant: One of Albania’s best agrotourism restaurants. Lovely setting and excellent food.
Valbona – Theth Hike (Valbona Pass)
I was really confused about visiting Theth and Valbona when planning my northern Albanian road trip. I discovered it’s not possible to drive between the two villages. You have to go all the way back to Shkoder, which is not practical at all.
The best way to visit both is to hike the Valbona Pass trail. It’s a 17 km trail that connects the villages of Theth and Valbona. It’s the most famous hike in Albania and one section of the Peaks of the Balkans transnational hiking trail.
For practical reasons (I had my dog with me and a rental car with luggage), I didn’t do the trail and just visited Theth.
From Valbona you take the bus-ferry-bus back to Shkoder. The ferry on Lake Koman travels through spectacular fjords. I took this ferry from Komani Lake to the Shala River, and it was an unforgettable experience.
You can make the bus and ferry bookings with Komani Lake Ferry Berisha.
Where to Stay in Theth
Most of the accommodation in Theth is small guest houses. Unless you have a car, it’s best to stay in the centre of the village so you can easily walk to the sites and restaurants.
I highly recommend these guest houses in Theth:
- Mid-range: Bujtina Pllumi Theth – Lovely guest house in the centre. Doubles from $79 USD, including breakfast and parking. Guests can have dinner at the guest house if booked in advance. Good for families.
- Mid-range: Guest House Flodisa – I stayed here 3 nights and really liked it. Perfect location in the centre, but on a quiet lane. Doubles start at $76 USD, including breakfast and parking. Excellent value in the centre.
- Budget: Bujtina Terthorja – Excellent choice if you have a car. Rooms start at $46 USD, including breakfast and parking. Very peaceful location just outside the centre.
Where to Eat in Theth
Theth has a couple of really good restaurants, and a few that are good but not fabulous.
What I really wish I would have known before travelling from Shkoder to Theth is that many guest houses offer dinner for visitors, if ordered in advance. And you don’t need to be a guest at the guest house.
Bujtina Pllumi Theth and the guest house where I stayed do this, and I saw other guest houses advertising dinners.
This is where I ate in Theth:
- Villa Gjecaj Restaurant: My favourite place to eat in Theth. Beautiful outdoor setting next to an old stone church (now converted into the restaurant), away from the main road. Wonderful food.
- Gurra Family Restaurant: One of the best restaurants in Theth. Excellent food (the lamb is amazing) and service. Large indoor and outdoor dining areas.
- Restaurant Jezerca: Large restaurant in the centre offering traditional Albanian food and pizza. The outdoor terrace is popular with tourists for casual meals and beer. The food wasn’t my favourite, but it was fine.
Last Words on How to Travel from Shkoder to Theth
It’s very easy to get to Theth from Shkoder, and there’s different options.
When I visited Theth I rented a car and drove from Shkoder, but I also take a lot of buses around Albania. They’re an excellent budget choice. And there’s always the more expensive, but super easy option of taking a taxi (private transfer).
