Complete Guide to Theth: Albania’s Charming Mountain Village
I recently spent 3 days in Theth as part of a road trip covering the Albanian Alps. This guide to Theth covers everything you need to know to visit and make the most of your time there.
Theth is mostly famous as the scenic mountain village at one end of the famous Valbona Pass trail. But it’s worth visiting Theth even if you’re not a big hiker (I’m not).
Complete Guide to Theth: Albania’s Charming Mountain Village
I’m not a big hiker, and didn’t go there for the Valbona Pass hike. I wanted to see if Theth lived up to the hype as one of Albania’s most beautiful mountain villages. It did!
This guide has everything you need to plan a trip to Theth.
Complete Guide to Theth, Albania – Quick Facts
Location: Northern Albania, Theth National Park
Getting There: 2–3 hrs from Shkoder by bus, taxi, or car
Best Time: May–June & Sept–Oct
Stay: 2–3 nights (longer for avid hikers)
Don’t Miss: Blue Eye, Church of Theth, Grunas Waterfall
Where to Stay: Family-run guest houses in the centre
Money: Cash only (no ATMs)
Where is Theth
Theth is located in northern Albania, specifically within Theth National Park in the Albanian Alps. It is 175 km from the capital city of Tirana and 80 km from the northern city of Shkoder.
The location is somewhat remote, but accessible by a fully paved road. Technically the road is maintained all year, but locals have told me it’s not consistently plowed in winter.
How to Get to Theth from Tirana, Shkoder & Valbona
There are 3 ways to get to Theth – by bus, private transfer (taxi) or renting a car and driving. Albania has very limited rail service, and there is no train to Theth.
In this guide I’m going to tell you how to get to Theth from Tirana, from the Tirana International Airport, from Shkoder and from Valbona.
Check the Gjirafa Travel website for bus schedules. It may not be 100% accurate, but close enough to give you a good idea of the options. I use this website all the time in Albania.
How to Get to Theth from Tirana
There is no direct bus to Theth from Tirana. Keep in mind you have to pay the bus driver in cash (lek). Some drivers may accept euros, but there’s no guarantee.
- By bus: Bus from the South North Bus Terminal in Tirana to Shkoder (cost is 500 lek – $6 USD), change buses in Shkoder. The Shkoder to Theth bus departs at 6:20 am (from the Shkoder bus station). Berisha Ferry also operates a bus from Shkoder to Theth twice daily at 7:00 am and 2:00 pm outside the Rozafa Hotel. Cost is 1200 – 1500 lek ($14.50 – $18 USD). The trip takes about 3 hours.
- By private transfer (taxi): Expect to pay between 16,000 to 19,000 lek ($195 to $230 USD). Check with Taxi Landi (very reliable company specializing in intercity transfers) and a local Tirana taxi company like Taxi Lux.
- Renting a car and driving: There are numerous places to rent a car in Tirana. Many agencies are located by the airport. The roads are in good shape to Theth, and the mountain scenery is stunning. Most guest houses in Theth have parking. I used DiscoverCars.com when I rented a car in Tirana to drive to Theth.
How to Get to Theth from the Tirana International Airport
There is no direct bus from the airport to Theth. You have to change buses in Shkoder. Bus fare is paid in cash to the driver. Not all drivers will accept euros.
- By bus: Hermes Aeroport operates shuttle buses from the airport to Shkoder between 3:00 am and 10:00 pm for 1000 lek ($12 USD). The Shkoder to Theth bus departs at 6:20 am (from the Shkoder bus station). Berisha Ferry also operates a bus from Shkoder to Theth twice daily at 7:00 am and 2:00 pm outside the Rozafa Hotel. Cost is 1200 – 1500 lek ($14.50 – $18 USD). The trip takes about 3 hours.
- By private transfer (taxi): Airport taxis charge 19,000 lek ($230 USD) to drive to Theth. The journey takes about 4 hours. You can also check with Taxi Landi (very reliable company specializing in intercity transfers) to see what they would charge.
- Renting a car and driving: There are numerous car rental agencies at the airport. I recommend reserving a car in advance. I always use DiscoverCars.com to rent cars from the Tirana Airport. The roads to Theth are in good condition, and the mountain scenery is stunning. Most guest houses in Theth have parking.
For information on renting a car and driving in Albania, read my guide.
How to Get to Theth from Shkoder
Shkoder is considered the gateway to the Albanian Alps. Many visitors start their alpine trip in this lovely northern city. Theth is only 80 km from Shkoder, about a 2 hour drive (mountain roads take longer).
- By bus: There is one daily bus from the Shkoder bus station to Theth at 6:20 am. Berisha Ferry also operates a bus from Shkoder to Theth twice daily at 7:00 am and 2:00 pm outside the Rozafa Hotel. Cost is 1200 – 1500 lek ($14.50 – $18 USD). The trip takes about 3 hours.
- By private transfer (taxi): Check with a local company like Elektrik Taxi; the price will be about 10,000 lek ($122 USD).
- Renting a car and driving: There are several car rental agencies in Shkoder. I used DiscoverCars.com to find one when I was in Shkoder. The drive to Theth is about 2 hours. The mountain roads are in good condition, and the views are gorgeous.
Check this guide for more information about how to travel from Shkoder to Theth.
How to Get to Theth from Valbona
Valbona is the other famous mountain village in the Albanian Alps. It’s the start, or end, of the popular Valbona Pass trail (aka Valbona – Theth hike).
The best way to reach Theth from Valbona is to hike the Valbona Pass trail. Driving is possible, but not practical because there’s no paved road linking the two villages. You have to drive back through Shkoder which takes over 6 hours.
I wanted to visit Valbona on my road trip through northern Albania, but it was impossible to fit into the itinerary because of this issue.
- Hiking the Valbona Pass: The Valbona to Theth hike is the most famous trail in Albania. It’s an all day 17 km hike of moderate difficulty. It’s how most visitors reach Theth from Valbona.
- Renting a car and driving: There is no car rental in Valbona. You will have to make arrangements in a city like Shkoder or Kukes. I used DiscoverCars.com to rent a car when I was in Shkoder. The drive from Valbona to Theth is over 6 hours because you have to drive back through Shkoder. There are other routes, but they aren’t paved and not advisable, or permitted, with a rental car.
When to Visit Theth Guide
The best time to visit Theth is late spring (mid-May) and early autumn (mid-September to mid-October).
Hiking season runs May to November, but summers can be hot and the trails busy.
Seasonal Guide for Theth
Spring: This can be a nice time to visit Theth, but you have to check the conditions, particularly if you plan to hike. Trail conditions and weather can be unpredictable in spring because of alpine snowfall. Mid-May is better for hiking.
Summer: Theth can get hot in summer. Temperatures have reached 40 C (104 F) in the last couple of years. It’s cooler than Tirana and the Albanian Riviera, but still not great for hiking.
Autumn: September and October are nice in Theth. I visited in late September and it was still hot during the day, but fine for hiking. November is less predictable weather-wise, and a lot of guest houses and restaurants close.
Winter: Here’s the truth – Theth is not one of the best places to visit in Albania in winter, despite what you might read elsewhere. Even though the road is now paved and technically passable all year, it is not plowed consistently. There are times when Theth is cut off, and almost all guest houses and restaurants close over winter.
What to Do in Theth Guide
Theth is small and quiet. The main attractions are the beautiful scenery and hiking, but there are a few sites in Theth, and this guide covers them.
1. Visit the Church of Theth
The most famous landmark in Theth is the stone Catholic church. It’s surrounded by mountains in a pastoral setting and very pretty. The interior is plain, but it is a working church.
There were lots of people socializing and chilling out on the grassy lawns around the church, having a beer when I visited towards the evening. It seems like a popular hangout spot.
The church was originally built in 1892, converted to a health centre during the communist regime, and restored as a church post-communism.
2. See Grunas Waterfall
Grunas Waterfall is a small waterfall that is a short hike from the village. The trail is well marked and takes about 45 minutes. I saw one brave girl doing it in flip flops (not advised).
The waterfall was a little underwhelming at the end of September, but is probably more spectacular in the spring after the snow melt.
3. Climb Reconciliation Tower
Also known as the Lock-in Tower, it’s a small defensive stone tower built hundreds of years ago. The primary purpose of the tower was to aid in resolving disputes in the community, in accordance with a set of tribal laws known as Kanun.
One of those laws was essentially ‘an eye for an eye,’ and disputes could carry on for generations. Under communism Kanun law was outlawed, but the towers still exist.
4. Hike to the Blue Eye of Theth (Syri i Kalter Kaprre)
You’ve probably heard of the Blue Eye of Saranda, Syri i Kalter, but Theth National Park has its own blue eye near the village of Kaprre.
The Syri i Kalter Kaprre is a natural spring pool, famous for its clear blue water. The water comes from underground springs and a waterfall. It’s a beautiful spot, surrounded by forest. Swimming is allowed, but the water is very cold, even in summer.
From Theth it’s a 10 km hike, but if you have a car you can also drive part of the way to the parking lot beside Bar Restaurant Dostanisha in Nderlysaj and walk from there. The road is mostly gravel and not great, but I managed in a small SUV.
5. Ride the Thethi Zipline
Thethi Zipline is one of the most popular things to do in Theth. Unfortunately it was closed for the season when I visited, but it looks like it would be great fun.
The length is 1200 metres, and it glides over the river, valley and traditional village homes. You can also arrange an ATV rental through the same company.
6. Have a Meal at Villa Gjecaj Restaurant
My favourite meal in Theth was here at Vila Gjecaj Restaurant. My guest house host recommended it, and it was fantastic.
It’s one of the best agrotourism restaurants in northern Albania.
The food was very good, but my favourite thing was the outdoor dining area on the grassy lawn dotted with trees, tables and chairs, and mountains all around. Come here, you won’t be disappointed! Even my dog Watson enjoyed it.
7. Walk the Theth to Valbona Trail (Valbona Pass)
The Valbona Pass trail connects the villages of Theth and Valbona. It is the most famous hike in Albania, and part of the Peaks of the Balkans transnational hiking trail.
The hike is 17 km, moderately challenging with some steep ascents. It takes you through 2 national parks and a mountain pass. It requires an overnight stay in Valbona.
Most people do this as 2-3 day trip and take the Koman Lake ferry and bus back to Shkoder at the end. The hike takes one day, but the transport take another full day. The scenery on Komani Lake is spectacular.
8. Explore the Village of Theth
Walk around Theth and enjoy the views and pastoral charm. Stop somewhere for a coffee or meal at an outdoor cafe, like Gurra Family Restaurant.
One of the best things to do in Theth is to just relax and take in the peaceful valley.
9. Visit the Ethnographic Museum of Dukagjini
I wasn’t sure if I should include the ethnographic museum in this Theth guide because I don’t know if it’s still open. It sounds pretty unique so check while you’re there.
It was the family home of Lulash Keq Boshi, and has architectural features that were typical at the time, such as a defensive tower, plank ceilings and stone eves. It’s also partially built on a large rock.
I didn’t see any signs for it while in Theth and only found out about it after my visit.
Best Hikes in Theth
Theth is paradise for avid hikers. This guide covers the most well known hikes, but there are many more in Theth National Park. You could easily stay a week in Theth and do a different hike each day.
Check with your guest house or a hiking site like AllTrails for more trails.
- Valbona Pass: 17 km hike of moderate difficulty between Theth National Park and Valbona National Park. The hike ends in the village of Valbona. It’s the most famous hike in Albania and part of the transnational Peak of the Balkans trail. I saw groups of tired looking hikers coming off the trail every afternoon when I was there in late September.
- Syri i Kalter Kaprre (Theth Blue Eye): 10 km hike one way through mostly pine forest to a natural spring and waterfall. You can swim in the natural pool, but it’s very cold. If you hike both ways, it’s long so consider getting a ride or driving to the village of Ndyerlysaj and hiking from there, which is almost 2 km each way.
- Grunas Waterfall: 6 km (round trip) easy hike to a small, but pretty waterfall.
Where to Stay in Theth
Theth is very small, but it’s best to stay in the centre. You want to be able to easily walk to restaurants and the sites. There are guest houses along the main road leading into Theth, but unless you have a car don’t stay out there.
Because Theth is so popular with hikers, there are lots of guest houses. However, make your reservation early. I visited Theth in late September and most places were fully booked.
My favourite places to stay in Theth:
Bujtina Pllumi Theth: Lovely family run guest house in the centre. Some rooms have mountain views. Doubles from $79 USD, including breakfast and parking. Guests can have dinner at the guest house if booked in advance. Nice spot for families.
Guest House Flodisa: My dog and I stayed 3 nights at this family run guest house. The setting is very picturesque on a quiet lane. Rooms are clean with warm blankets for the cooler nights. Doubles start at $76 USD, including breakfast and parking. Excellent location in the centre on a quiet lane.
Bujtina Terthorja: Excellent guest house just outside of the centre. Very peaceful location. Rooms start at $46 USD, including breakfast and parking. This is a good choice if you have a car. Outdoor dining and fire pit.
Where to Eat in Theth
Theth doesn’t have lots of restaurants, but there’s enough for a few days. However, a really good option is to eat at a guest house.
Many guest houses provide dinner if you request it earlier in the day – and you don’t need to be a guest of the guest house.
I saw signs in Theth for dinners at guest houses (if ordered in the afternoon), and when I was touring the guest houses I recommend above, the owner of Bujtina Pllumi Theth told me she does this too.
If I would have known about this option before my 2nd day in Theth, I definitely would have done it. That’s why I’m putting in this Theth guide!
Where I ate in Theth:
- Restaurant Jezerca: Large restaurant in the centre offering traditional Albanian food and pizza. They have a big outdoor dining area and are a popular spot for casual meals and beer. The food wasn’t my favourite, but the location is convenient.
- Gurra Family Restaurant: One of the best restaurants in Theth. Convenient location on the main street. Excellent food (the lamb is amazing) and service. Large indoor and outdoor dining areas.
- Villa Gjecaj Restaurant: My favourite place to eat in Theth. One of Albania’s best agrotourism restaurants. Beautiful outdoor setting and food. Even locals like this restaurant.
How Long Should You Stay in Theth
This depends. If you’re not a huge hiker, 2 or 3 days is the perfect amount of time to spend in Theth. That’s plenty of time to see the village and sites, do a short hike, or something adventurous like the zipline or ATV ride, and enjoy the natural setting.
If you are an avid hiker you might want to stay 7 days or more. There are many spectacular trails around Theth, most of them full day hikes.
I stayed in Theth 3 nights (I’m not a hiker), and it was the perfect amount of time.
What You Should Know Before Visiting Theth
Before you head out to Theth, it’s good to know these things:
- You can drink the water. The tap water comes from the mountains and is safe to drink. I wish I had known this before purchasing 6 huge bottles of water and lugging them into the guest house.
- There are no ATMs in Theth. Make sure you bring enough cash with you. Credit cards may not be accepted everywhere.
- Book accommodation in advance. The best guest houses are fully booked all season. I made my reservations a few weeks in advance in September and most places were already booked, even in shoulder season.
- Theth is hot in summer. While cooler than other parts of Albania, Theth still gets hot in summer. Temperatures have reached 40 C in the last 2 years.
- The roads are gravel. The roads in Theth are not paved. They are all gravel or dirt. The road to Theth is paved, but the roads in the village aren’t. They were reasonable for driving (with care), but I didn’t enjoy walking on them.
FAQs About Visiting Theth
Here are the most common questions about visiting Theth:
Yes, Theth is worth visiting. It is a beautiful and secluded mountain village with a unique culture. If you’re a hiker, you’ll love it. Theth has truly spectacular mountain trails.
2 or 3 nights in Theth is perfect. If you are an avid hiker plan to stay longer so you can take advantage of the numerous hiking options.
Yes, it is safe to drive from Tirana to Theth. The highways and roads are in good condition, and the infamous mountain road to Theth is now fully paved.
Last Words on Complete Guide to Theth: Albania’s Charming Mountain Village
Theth definitely lived up to the hype. It is just as beautiful as reported and easy to reach with the paved road. This is a unique and gorgeous part of Albania, and this guide will help you make the most of your time in Theth.
