Is Theth Worth Visiting Without Doing the Valbona Pass Hike?
The answer is yes. It’s absolutely worth visiting Theth, whether you hike or not. The village lives up to its reputation as one of the most beautiful places in Albania, and has a unique culture.
I spent 3 days in Theth as part of road trip through northern Albania. Most visitors end up in Theth after hiking the Valbona Pass trail, but I didn’t do the hike. In fact, I hardly hiked at all, and Theth was still worth visiting.
Is Theth Worth Visiting Without Doing the Valbona Pass Hike?
Theth is arguably Albania’s best known mountain village. It’s famous as a hiking hub in the Albanian Alps, but Theth is absolutely worth visiting even if you don’t do the Valbona Pass hike, or don’t hike at all.
For hikers, there are plenty of trail options, other than the Valbona Pass trail which starts and ends in different villages. I did a couple of short hikes, but there are several full-day trails if you want more of a challenge.
Even if you don’t hike at all, the dramatic mountain scenery and village sites alone make Theth worth visiting for a few days.
What to Do in Theth
Theth is in a valley surrounded by the Accursed Mountains, and the scenery is stunning. It’s worth visiting Theth just for the incredible views. But here’s what else you can do:
1. Visit the Church of Theth
The most famous landmark in Theth is the stone Catholic church. It was originally built in 1892, spent the communist years as a health centre and was converted back into a church post-communism.
It’s still an active church, and if you’re in Theth on a Sunday you might be able to attend mass.
I visited the church a couple of times and there were always people hanging around on the lawns outside, just enjoying the beautiful views (and maybe having a beer).
2. See Grunas Waterfall
Grunas Waterfall is a short hike from the village (about 45 minutes one way). The waterfall was a bit underwhelming in late September, but it is probably more spectacular in spring after the snow melt.
3. Climb Reconciliation Tower
Also known as the Lock-in Tower, it’s a small defensive stone tower built hundreds of years ago. The primary purpose of the tower was to aid in resolving disputes in the community, in accordance with a set of tribal laws known as Kanun.
These stone towers, called ‘kullas’ can be found across northern Albania. The wealthy often built homes as kullas, for defensive purposes.
After communism when people could move to wherever they wanted, most kullas were abandoned. This one in Theth is one of the best preserved kullas in Albania.
4. Hike to the Blue Eye of Theth (Syri i Kalter Kaprre)
Syri i Kalter Kaprre is a natural spring pool, famous for its vivid blue water. The water comes from underground springs and a waterfall. It’s a beautiful spot, surrounded by forest. Swimming is allowed, but the water is very cold, even in summer.
This is one of the longer hikes you can take from Theth, it’s 10 km one way. It is possible to do a shorter version from the village of Nderlysaj (2 km or so each way) if you have a car or can get a ride. The road to Nderlysaj is gravel, but I managed in a small SUV.
5. Ride the Thethi Zipline
Thethi Zipline is one of the most popular things to do in Theth. Unfortunately it was closed for the season when I visited (late September), but it looks like it would be great fun.
The length is 1200 metres, and it glides over the river, valley and traditional village homes. You can also arrange an ATV rental through the same company.
6. Have a Meal at Villa Gjecaj Restaurant
My favourite meal in Theth was here at Villa Gjecaj Restaurant, one of Albania’s best agrotourism restaurants. My guest house host recommended it, and it was fantastic.
The food was very good, but my favourite thing was the outdoor dining area on the grassy lawn dotted with trees, tables and chairs, and mountains all around. Even my dog Watson enjoyed it!
7. Explore the Village of Theth
Theth is quaint and beautiful. Stroll through the village and explore a few side lanes. There is pastoral charm and mountain views everywhere you look. The scenery is one of the main reasons Theth is worth visiting.
8. Visit the Ethnographic Museum of Dukagjini
I didn’t find out about this museum until after I left Theth, which makes me wonder if it’s still open. But it sounds interesting and a great way to see what traditional mountain life was like, so hopefully it will be open when you visit.
Is It Worth Visiting Theth With Children?
Theth is worth visiting with children. Albanians are very family oriented and your children will be welcomed with open arms. I saw quite a few families with young children when I was there.
There is lots of open space, animals running around (chickens, horses, cows). Restaurants are mostly casual, and have large outdoor areas.
Many guest houses have family rooms, include breakfast and will also prepare dinner if you give them advance notice – very convenient when you have small kids. You can also drink the tap water.
What Theth isn’t good for is strollers – the roads are gravel, so terrible for pushing a pram. Also, there are no swimming pools. Almost all accommodation is guest houses, and they don’t have swimming pools.
Is it Worth Visiting Theth with a Dog?
I travelled to Theth with my small dog, Watson. My guest house allowed me to bring him, and he was welcomed into all restaurants – some even told me he could sit inside.
While I left Watson in the guest house when I went hiking (it was a bit hot for him during the day), I did see other hikers with their dogs.
So yes, I think it’s worth visiting Theth with a dog. Watson enjoyed the clean mountain air and cooler temperatures.
Here’s more information on travelling with a dog into and around Albania.
How to Get to Theth
There are 3 ways to get to Theth: by bus, taxi or private transfer, and self-drive (renting a car).
When I went to Theth I rented a car and drove, but I’ve taken lots of buses around Albania – they’re an inexpensive and convenient way to get around.
From Tirana Centre
- By bus: No direct bus from Tirana to Theth. You have to take the bus to Shkoder from the South North terminal and change buses. Berisha Ferry operates a shuttle twice daily to Theth from Shkoder.
- By taxi (private transfer): Most taxis do private intercity transfers, but not all will want to drive to Theth, so arrange this in advance. I use Taxi Landi for this sort of thing. They are reliable and pet friendly. It will cost approx. 19,000 lek ($230 USD).
- Self-drive (renting a car): The roads are very good to Theth. There is a couple of hours of mountain driving, but the views are gorgeous. Most Theth guest houses have parking. I use DiscoverCars.com to find rentals in Albania.
You’ll find more information on renting a car and driving in Albania here.
From Tirana International Airport
- By bus: There is no direct bus from the airport to Theth. You have to change in Shkoder. Hermes Aeroport operates airport shuttle buses to Shkoder. Berisha Ferry operates a bus from Shkoder to Theth twice daily.
- By taxi (private transfer): Airport taxis charge 19,000 lek ($230 USD) to drive to Theth. The drive is about 4 hours. You can also check with Taxi Landi, a reliable company specializing in intercity transfers.
- Self-drive (renting a car): There’s lots of car rental agencies at the airport. I use DiscoverCars.com to rent cars from the Tirana Airport. The roads to Theth are in good shape, and the mountain drive is stunning. Most guest houses in Theth have parking.
For more detailed information about how to get to Theth (especially by bus), see my complete guide to Theth.
From Shkoder
Shkoder is the gateway to the Albanian Alps. It’s a lovely small city and only 80 km from Theth. This guide to Shkoder has all the information you need to plan a visit.
- By bus: There is one daily bus from the Shkoder bus station to Theth at 6:20 am. Berisha Ferry also operates a bus from Shkoder to Theth twice daily outside the Rozafa Hotel.
- By taxi (private transfer): Check with a local company like Elektrik Taxi. It will cost about 10,000 lek ($122 USD).
- Renting a car and driving: I used DiscoverCars.com to find a car rental in Shkoder. The drive to Theth is about 2 hours, and the mountain road is in good condition.
When to Visit Theth
Shoulder season is the best time to visit Theth: May to June and September to October.
Summers can be very hot and busy with hikers, and winters are not advisable as most businesses close and the driving conditions can be hazardous.
Despite what you may read elsewhere, Theth is not a practical winter destination. If you want to visit Albania in winter, a better mountain village near Shkoder is Razem, or Kruje near Tirana.
Where to Stay in Theth
Most of the accommodation in Theth is small guest houses, and unless you have a car, it’s best to stay in the centre of the village.
Theth is kind of spread out and there are guest houses along the road leading into the village, but there’s no sidewalk and it’s steep. Stay in the centre near the main road so you can easily walk to the restaurants and sites.
I highly recommend these guest houses in Theth:
- Mid-range: Bujtina Pllumi Theth – Lovely guest house in the centre. Some rooms have mountain views. Doubles from $79 USD, including breakfast and parking. Guests can have dinner at the guest house if booked in advance. Good for families.
- Mid-range: Guest House Flodisa – I stayed 3 nights here and really liked it. Perfect location in the centre, but on a quiet lane. Very pretty setting. Doubles start at $76 USD, including breakfast and parking. Excellent value in the centre.
- Budget: Bujtina Terthorja – Excellent choice if you have a car. Beautiful setting and lovely guest house. Rooms start at $46 USD, including breakfast and parking. Very peaceful location just outside the centre.
Last Words on is Theth Worth Visiting Without Doing the Valbona Pass Hike?
I absolutely think Theth is worth visiting, whether you hike the Valbona Pass or not. The scenery is beautiful, and it’s a peaceful mountain village that is culturally unique. I stayed 3 nights and was really glad I went, even though I didn’t do much hiking.
