Durres or Golem, Albania: Which is Better?

If it’s your first trip to Albania, it can be tough to figure out which beach area to visit, especially if you’re choosing between Durres and Golem. They’re both so close to Tirana and look amazing in photos. But they are very different!

I recently spent time exploring both Golem and Durres. If you’re stuck deciding between the two, here’s what I liked (and didn’t like) about each one.

Durres or Golem, Which is Better?

Durres is the second largest city in Albania, with the biggest port in the country. In fact, you can take a ferry to Italy from Durres. It is very much a year round city, with more locals than tourists.

Golem on the other hand, is a small resort town. It doesn’t have much going on except the beach. During summer, there are more tourists than locals.

The Beaches in Golem and Durres

Durres Beach with lounge chairs and yellow umbrellas — Durres Beach is a nice wide, sandy beach

Both Durres Beach and Golem Beach (Plazhi i Golemit in Albanian) are sandy beaches, with lots of amenities and waterfront promenades. Golem Beach is really just a continuation of Durres Beach, but because it’s further from the city it’s cleaner and quieter.

Durres Beach starts 3 km from the city centre, so keep this mind when you’re deciding where to stay. There are beaches in the centre of Durres, but they’re not nice at all. There’s another beach called Currila north of the centre, but you need a car to get there.

In Golem you’re never far from a beautiful sandy beach. Even the hotels that aren’t right on the beach are only 50 metres or so from the shore. The water is generally shallow with a gradual slope, making it a good choice for families.

What is There to Do Beyond the Beach?

The Durres centre is busy and pleasant for walking

Golem doesn’t have much going on except for beach bars, beach cafes and beach restaurants. If you want something else to do you’ll have to head into Durres.

Durres is a lot more energetic than Golem with wide boulevards lined with cafes and shops. While there isn’t a lot of attractions, Durres does have some interesting sites, like the Roman amphitheatre and Venetian watchtower. It’s a pleasant city to walk around and explore.

Dining and Local Cuisine in Durres and Golem

beachfront restaurant with white talbes and chairs and bamboo canopy in Golem — Golem has many restaurants and lounges on the beach

Both Golem and Durres have restaurants serving seafood and traditional Albanian food. In Golem most of the restaurants are on the beach, which is really nice. Durres has beachfront restaurants too, especially along Rruga Currila.

I ate in some fantastic local spots when I was in Durres, but away from the water. I prefer to eat in non-touristy areas, where the vibe is more local and the prices not inflated.

The thing to eat in both places is seafood – it’s excellent and super fresh.

Accommodation Options

Durres has a wide range of hotels in the centre, and along Durres Beach. My top recommendations for hotels in Durres are:

Art Gallery Boutique Hotel: lovely 4 star hotel in the centre of Durres. Rooms start from $90 USD, including breakfast. Excellent location for exploring Durres.
Cosmo Beach Hotel: small beachfront hotel on Durres Beach. Rooms start from $85 USD, including breakfast. Lovely beachfront restaurant.
Hotel Saly: boutique property steps from Durres Beach. Rooms from $60 USD, including breakfast. Excellent value for Durres Beach.

Golem has lots of beachfront hotels. Even if your hotel is not beachfront, Golem is small – it won’t be far from the beach! My top picks for Golem are:

Hotel Mirage: very nice boutique 4 star beachfront hotel. Rooms start at $125 US, including breakfast. Guest rooms have balconies with ocean views. Gorgeous beachfront location.
Hotel Erta: brand new small hotel just 5 minutes walk from the beach. Rooms all have kitchenettes and balconies (except 2), and start at $30 USD. There’s a nice rooftop terrace for coffee. Exceptional value for Golem.

Is Golem or Durres Easier to Get To?

3 coaches with Durres sign and drivers in front at Tirana's South and North Bus Terminal — Buses leave every half hour for Durres from Tirana’s South and North Bus Terminal

Durres is easier to get to, because it has a direct bus from the airport, and there are more frequent buses from Tirana’s main bus terminal (South and North Bus Terminal).

If you want to take the bus to Golem from the airport, you have to go to Tirana and change buses. It sounds daunting, but it’s easy. These buses all arrive and leave from the same terminal.

Airport taxis go to Durres centre for 3,000 lek ($35 USD) and Durres Beach or Golem for 3,500 lek ($41.00 USD). The journey takes about 45 minutes.

Taxi drivers don’t take credit cards, so make sure you have cash. There are ATMs by the luggage carrousels.

cement wall full of graffiti and young man crouching down in Golem — This is the bus stop for the bus back to Durres from Golem – there isn’t even a sign!

When I went to Golem I took a local bus from Durres. It took 30 minutes and cost 100 lek ($1.15 USD). The bus stop is in front of the Durres Central Bus Station.

Last Words on Which is Better, Durres or Golem?

After visiting both, I personally think Durres is better than Golem. I love Golem beach, but the town lacks the local energy I enjoy.

But if all you want to do is relax on your beach vacation, than Golem is better. It’s one of Albania’s major beach destinations. You can always go into Durres for the day.

If you’re like me, and want a destination with more than a beach, Durres is a better choice. It’s a thriving port city and has more going on. You’ll see a lot of everyday Albanian life in Durres! Just remember if you choose to stay on Durres Beach, it is 3 km from the centre.