2 or 3 Day Durres Itinerary: Sea, Ruins & Wine
Durres is one of those secondary cities that escapes mainstream tourism, but that doesn’t mean it’s not worth seeing. Albania’s second largest city has a lot going for it, and this itinerary will show you what Durres is all about.
I’ve spent quite a bit of time in Durres, and the city really grows on you. It’s got a completely different vibe from Tirana, despite being so close.
There’s palm trees, cafes galore, the Adriatic Sea, and it’s a very old city. In fact, many historians speculate there is a massive archeological layer directly under modern Durres.
2-3 Day Durres Itinerary
This itinerary will take you through all the sites of Durres, including the famous beach and promenade. If you have a third day you can experience the region’s wine making traditions and visit a couple of wineries near Durres.
Day One in Durres
Today you’ll explore the centre of Durres. The itinerary looks long, but it won’t take that much time to do. All of the sites are within walking distance of each other, and some you can only see from the outside.
- Coffee culture: Start the day like a local by having a coffee at one of Durres’ many coffee shops. Sophie Caffe on Bulevardi Dyrrah is good.
- Sheshi Liria (Town Square): Walk straight down Bulevardi Dyrrah past Sheshi Liria and Town Hall.
- Orthodox Church of Apostle Paul and Saint Asti: The church is newer but beautiful and free to visit.
- Venetian Tower: Part of the fortifications that protected Durres, built in the 15th century. The interior and views from the top are interesting, but not super impressive. Unless you’re really keen, view the tower from the exterior and walk along Rruga Anastas Dursaku to see what remains of the fortress walls.
- Durres Amphitheatre: The largest ancient amphitheatre in the Balkans, built in the 2nd century AD. This is Durres’ most famous site, so expect it to be busier.
- King Zog Villa: This abandoned villa was built in the 1920s for King Zog of Albania. When I went it was closed to the public, but I’ve since heard you can pay the guard a fee and he’ll let you in. There’s nice views of Durres and the sea.
- Great Mosque of Durres: This is the largest mosque in Durres, built in 1931 on the site of an older mosque. During the communist dictatorship it was used as a youth centre, but re-opened in 1993. Shoes must be removed, and women must cover their hair.
- Byzantine Market Square and Roman Baths: These two sites are next to each other. Both are fenced off, but clearly visible from the sidewalk. They date back to the 6th century AD.
- Lunch at Liridia Restaurant or Restorant Korca: Both are casual and local restaurants serving traditional food. Liridia is one my favourite places to eat in Durres.
- Martyrs’ Mausoleum: Very close to the restaurants is this park and mausoleum dedicated to soldiers who died during the Albanian Patriot Movement in the 1920s and WWII. The mosaic “the Liberation of Durres” is an excellent example of socialist realism art.
- Taulantia Promenade: In the evening take part in the Albanian tradition of “xhiro” (evening stroll). Walk toward Sfinksi, the modern concrete landmark meant to look like the Egyptian Sphinx (but it doesn’t).
- Dinner at Mediterran: One of the best restaurants in Durres with a really nice outdoor terrace looking over the Venetian walls.
Day Two in Durres
Today you’ll see one of the most famous museums in Albania (hopefully it will be open), and visit Durres Beach – the reason many tourists come to Durres.
- National Archeological Museum. This is the largest archeological museum in Albania. It’s been closed for renovation since 2021, but is set to re-open later in 2026. It was still closed when I last visited Durres, but you might be lucky.
- Old Doors Cultural Trail: If the museum is closed, do a curated heritage walk instead. This is a cultural trail of 12 historic doors in Durres. It’s a great way to see parts of the centre you probably wouldn’t otherwise. Use this website for information on the doors, and a map.
- Durres Beach: This is one of the longest beaches in Albania, with an equally long promenade full of restaurants and cafes. More than just a beach, Durres Beach is like a separate town with its own residential and commercial areas. It’s 3 km from the centre, so take the local bus (the one that goes to Plepa), or a taxi there.
Day Three in Durres (Optional)
If you have an extra day, why not explore the region around Durres? There’s excellent wineries, agritourism restaurants, beautiful Golem Beach, or do an organized day tour.
- Abaia Winery: Do a wine tasting at this excellent local winery, which includes food (there’s a nice restaurant) and a tour of the cellars and vineyards. Wines and food are really good. This is one of my favourite Albanian wineries. Rent a car for the day or take a taxi here – it’s 8.5 km from the centre.
- Kokomani Winery: Another well regarded winery offering tastings and tours. There’s a good restaurant here also. It’s 18 km from Durres, so you’ll need a car. If you like wine, I recommend doing a mini wine tour, and visiting Kokomani Winery either before or after Abaia Winery. They’re in the same vicinity.
- Agroturizem Gjepali: A lovely farm to table restaurant in the countryside 14 km from Durres. I ate there in March during Ramadan and it was busy and chilly – but it would be beautiful in summer with the outdoor dining open. It’s a lovely property and the food is very good.
- Golem Beach: Golem is a small resort town 15 km south of Durres. The beach is nicer and cleaner than Durres Beach. There’s not much to see or do in Golem, so only come here if you want a nice beach day. I took the bus to Golem from Durres Central Bus Station. It cost 100 lek ($1.20 USD) and took 30 minutes.
- Cape of Rodon and Wine Tasting Day Tour: If you don’t want to worry about logistics, consider this tour to Cape of Rodon and Duka Winery. Cape of Rodon is a very pretty coastal area, and Duka Winery is another popular local vineyard.
I always use Discover Cars to book car rentals in Albania. I’ve had good experiences using this company.
Where to Stay in Durres
For this itinerary, it’s best to stay in the centre of Durres. The beach area is nice, but it’s far from the centre where the sites are located. I highly recommend these hotels (all include breakfast):
- Art Gallery Boutique Hotel (luxury): Boutique hotel next to and with views of the Durres Amphitheatre. Great location on a quieter street. My personal favourite property in Durres.
- Moenia Boutique Hotel (mid-range): Charming property next to the Venetian Tower and historic city walls. Very central location.
- Ermes Luxury Hotel (budget): Brand new hotel in the more local and residential part of the centre. The main sites are about 7 minutes walk. Really good value for Durres centre.
How to Get Around Durres for This Itinerary
You’ll be able to walk to everything on days 1 and 2, except Durres Beach. The beach is 3 km from the centre.
It’s possible to walk to the beach, but it’s not that nice of walk. I either take the local bus (the one that ends in Plepa) for 40 lek ($0.50 USD), or a taxi for 500-700 lek ($6-8.50 USD).
On day 3 you’ll need a vehicle. You can take a taxi or do what I did and rent a car. The roads in the area aren’t bad, but not great either. There’s some serious potholes and secondary roads are narrow for two-way traffic.
Here’s everything you might want to know about renting a car and driving in Albania.
How to Get to Durres
It’s easy to get to Durres from Tirana. There are direct buses from both the North South bus station and the Tirana airport, or you can take a taxi for 3000 lek ($35 USD). The drive is about 35 minutes depending on traffic.
There are also direct buses to Durres from many other Albanian cities, like Vlore or Shkoder. For bus information check the Gjirafa Travel website.
You can also reach Durres from Ancona and Bari, Italy by ferry.
When to Visit Durres
The best time to visit Durres is shoulder season, May and June or September and October. The weather is very pleasant at this time and accommodation is less expensive.
Summer is hot and Durres Beach is crowded. The centre doesn’t get a ton of tourists (except the day tours and buses at the Durres Amphitheatre), but still book accommodation well in advance if travelling in July or August.
Winter is cool, rainy and not the best time to visit Durres. However, everything in the centre will be open. It’s a year-round city and doesn’t shut down over winter.
Last Words on 2 or 3 Day Durres Itinerary: Sea, Ruins & Wine
Durres isn’t a city that most tourists cover. But follow this Durres itinerary, and I think you’ll find it charming and refreshingly local. With its mix of seaside life, ancient history and wineries just beyond the city, Durres is worth adding to an Albania itinerary.
