Mrizi i Zanave: an Unforgettable Dining Experience in Albania
My most memorable dining experience in Albania is lunch at Mrizi i Zanave Agroturizem. Widely believed to be the best agrotourism restaurant in Albania, dining at Mrizi i Zanave is not just about the food – it’s a cultural and culinary journey.
If you have a chance to dine there, absolutely do. In fact, if you’re anywhere in the vicinity, make a detour. This is more than a restaurant – it’s the finest example of agrotourism in Albania. Quite simply, it is gastro culinary treasure.
Mrizi i Zanave: an Unforgettable Dining Experience in Albania
Mrizi i Zanave is more than a restaurant – it’s a whole agrotourism experience, complete with guest house, orchards, shop and farm animals. There’s even a couple of bunkers left over from the communist years.
But nothing about this place hints at commercialism. Far from it – Mrizi i Zanave is helping rebuild Albania’s agricultural traditions, which were destroyed under communism. It is an authentic expression of Albanian cuisine, from field to table.
If you have kids with you, don’t worry (or dogs – they’re pet friendly). It’s actually great for families and kids.
There’s tons of room to run around, a play area, and kids can explore the farm and see lots of animals. There were flocks of geese, herds of goats and the odd rooster straying into the outdoor dining garden when I was there.
So come for the incredible food, but take time to explore the farm and shop at the farm store while you’re there.
Where is Mrizi i Zanave?
Mrizi i Zanave is just outside the village of Fishte, near Lezhe, Albania. It’s about 78 km north of Tirana, and 30 km south of Shkoder.
It’s a bit far to travel to from Tirana, but it’s manageable from Shkoder if you have a car. There’s plenty of parking onsite.
It’s very close to Kallmet Winery. My plan was to visit Kallmet for a wine tasting and then have lunch at Mrizi i Zanave. Kallmet was unfortunately closed (it was Sunday), but Mrizi i Zanave has excellent house wine that they make, so it turned out okay!
Can’t get to the rural agrotourism restaurant near Lezhe? Mrizi i Zanave has an out-post location in the centre of Tirana: the specialty sandwich shop Buke e Gjath by Mrizi i Zanave on Rruga Spiro Dedja, Tirana.
The Food at Mrizi i Zanave
Mrizi i Zanave is a restaurant with a working farm. They produce their own cheese, jams, honey, preserves and wine, and smoke their own meat. Much of the produce is from their own fields and orchards. The rest is sourced from 400 local families.
It’s a very special place, focusing on a sustainable food supply and giving back to the community by keeping things local.
In fact, during Covid when the restaurant had to shut down, the owner Altin Prenga kept all staff on payroll, instead arranging community outreach programs for them to help with.
There’s a farm shop that sells wine, olive oil, honey, cheeses, preserves, sun dried tomatoes, and olives so you can take a little bit of the magic with you when you leave.
Eating at Mrizi i Zanave
This is slow food and farm to table dining at its best. All ingredients are sourced from local producers if not directly on the farm itself.
By the way, make a reservation! The restaurant is almost always fully booked. I took my chances and went without a reservation, and when I saw someone directing traffic in the parking lot I was not optimistic.
Somehow, we managed to get a place outdoors at a small table in the middle of a huge set up for an 18th birthday party. We had to promise to be out in just over an hour, before the party started.
There are no menus at Mrizi i Zanave. Everything depends on what is in season and available. Our server told us what was being cooked that day and asked if he could bring us the day’s specials.
We had no idea what we would end up getting for lunch, but what followed was a series of appetizers, grilled meat, breads and dessert. There were 8 different dishes, plus a fresh hibiscus welcome drink.
Every dish was amazing. All beautifully prepared with the freshest ingredients. The food is traditional with local ingredients, but prepared in a simple and healthy way.
Mrizi i Zanave has gorgeous indoor dining rooms, but eating outdoors under a canopy of grape vines, surrounded by fruit trees with roosters milling around is really pleasant. It felt very relaxed and unpretentious. My dog also liked it.
After lunch I explored the farm and the farm shop. Make sure you stop here – it is next door to the parking lot in the farm house. They have all kinds of local products for sale, most which they make themselves, including their delicious house red wine!
How Much Does it Cost?
The total cost of our meal was 3075 lek ($38 USD). This was for 2 people, included 8 dishes, fresh bread, a welcome drink and glass of wine, and tip. Very reasonable considering the quantity and exceptional quality of the food.
It’s possible dinner is more expensive, but since there’s no menus I couldn’t check prices. In any event, it’s very reasonably priced.
Staying At Mrizi i Zanave
It’s possible to fully immerse yourself in the agrotourism experience and stay overnight at Mrizi i Zanave in the beautiful guest house.
Rooms are decorated in traditional style, but with modern amenities and comforts. Doubles start at $81 USD, including breakfast and parking. I would stay here just to eat breakfast at the renowned restaurant. It must be amazing.
Last Words on Mrizi i Zanave: an Unforgettable Dining Experience in Albania
Mrizi i Zanave was recommended by several locals. Even still, I was surprised at how good it was. Also impressive was the scope of dedication to slow food and sustainable gastro tourism. It’s truly a remarkable place.
- Mrizi i Zanave: Rruga Lezhe – Vau i Dejes, Fishte, Lezhe
- Tel: +355 69 210 8032 (reservations highly recommended)
