Berat or Gjirokaster: Which Historic UNESCO City is Better?
I understand the dilemma. This was something I wondered myself when planning my first trip to Albania. Both are historic cities with UNESCO designated old towns. So which is better, Berat or Gjirokaster?
At the time I managed to visit both. I visited Gjirokaster while I was in Saranda for a month. After Saranda I spent a month in Vlore and visited Berat from there.
The truth is Gjirokaster and Berat are equally as beautiful and impressive.
Berat or Gjirokaster: Which Historic UNESCO City is Better?
Personally, I prefer Berat to Gjirokaster, but that’s probably because I’ve spent more time in Berat and know the city quite well. Both cities are beautiful, charming and historic.
What I recommend is this: if you have time visit both. If that’s not possible, visit Berat if you are staying in Vlore or Tirana. Visit Gjirokaster if you are heading further south to Saranda or Ksamil.
Berat and Gjirokaster are both worthwhile – you can’t go wrong visiting either.
Where are Berat and Gjirokaster?
Berat is in the south of Albania, but in the top portion – closer to the middle of the country. It is very easy to reach from Tirana and Vlore.
The first time I visited Berat was as a day trip from Vlore, but you can also visit Berat as a day trip from Tirana.
Gjirokaster is further south, much closer to the Albanian Riviera and the beach towns of Saranda and Ksamil. Gjirokaster is one of the most popular day trips from Saranda.
How to Get to Berat and Gjirokaster
Berat and Gjirokaster are both easy to reach, depending on where you are travelling from. Berat is closer to Tirana and Vlore. Gjirokaster is closer to Saranda and Ksamil.
How to Get to Berat
- Bus from Tirana: There are multiple buses each day from Tirana’s South North Bus Terminal. It cost 500 lek ($6 USD), and takes 2 – 2.5 hours.
- Private transfer (taxi) from Tirana: The fare is about 8000 lek ($95) and takes 1.5 hours. I used Taxi Landi the first time I went to Berat. Taxi Landi is very reliable and good.
- Bus from Vlore: Multiple buses daily. Fare is 500 lek ($6 USD), and it takes 2 hours.
- Private transfer (taxi) from Vlore: I used Taxi Landi for these kinds of transfers in Albania. They are professional and reliable.
Check this website for bus information in Albania. It’s not 100% accurate all the time, but close enough to give you a very good idea of the routes and schedules.
How to Get to Gjirokaster
- Bus from Saranda: Buses depart twice a day. Fare is 500 lek ($6 USD), and it takes just over an hour.
- Private transfer (taxi) from Saranda: Fare is 6000 lek ($72 USD). I use Saranda Eco Taxi for these types of trips from Saranda.
- From Ksamil: If travelling by bus, you’ll have to first take the bus to Saranda. If taking a taxi you can travel directly from Ksamil. The fare will be aprox 8000 lek ($96 USD).
Overview of Gjirokaster and Berat
These are two of Albania’s most visited cities. Here’s a brief overview of each:
Berat
Berat is Albania’s most beautiful city. It’s often called the city of a thousand windows because of the Ottoman era homes with narrow windows that climb up the hill sides. Divided in two by the Osum River, Berat is basically a post card everywhere you look.
The city is full of Byzantine era churches, historic mosques and dominated by Berat Castle, one of the oldest continuously inhabited castles in Europe.
There’s a real wine culture here too – Berat is in the middle of prime vineland, close to several excellent vineyards. Wine tastings in Berat are popular, and the city hosts a four day wine festival each autumn.
Gjirokaster
Known as Albania’s city of stone for the slate-roofed houses, cobblestone streets and historic castle, Gjirokaster is another beautiful city.
The most striking feature is the well preserved centre with its 12th century castle and Ottoman era bazaar.
Gjirokaster has a newer section of town, but most people head to the historic centre. While very beautiful, it also feels quite touristy with all kinds of souvenir shops and restaurants catering to visitors.
The castle is one of the best in Albania, with a military museum, old prison cells, armaments and cold war tunnels. One of Albania’s most important cultural festivals, the National Folklore Festival is held at Gjirokaster Castle every 5 years.
See my full guide to Gjirokaster here
How Berat and Gjirokaster are Different
While both cities are historic, and UNESCO World Heritage Sites, these are the differences I noticed:
- Berat is larger than Gjirokaster. While there is a newer part of Berat (like Gjirokaster), the beautiful centre includes the old town, the Castle district, and historic neighbourhoods on both sides of the river. It feels more expansive than Gjirokaster and less touristy.
- Gjirokaster has historic fort houses and mansions, while Berat has historic churches and mosques.
- Berat Castle is a living neighbourhood, with homes and shops within the fortification walls, though much of the castle itself is in ruins. Gjirokaster Castle is better preserved, more of a traditional castle attraction.
- Apart from the castle district, much of Berat’s centre is flat and walkable. The historic part of Gjirokaster is more steep.
- Both have cobblestone streets, but the stone is different. Gjirokaster’s stone streets are less slippery and easier to walk on.
- Berat is better for an overnight stay, Gjirokaster is better for a day trip.
- There are more hotels and restaurants in Berat.
Berat Mini Guide – What to Do, Where to Stay & Where to Eat
What to See in Berat
These are the main sites, but Berat is so lovely one of the best things to do is just wander around and enjoy the vibe.
- Berat Castle: One of Europe’s oldest living castles. Not only are there castle ruins to explore, but this is an ancient neighbourhood where people still live today. Walk the fortification walls, stroll through the cobblestone lanes, and visit Byzantine churches and ancient mosques.
- Onurfi Iconographic Museum: Located within Berat Castle, the museum is the historic and stunning Assumption of St. Mary Cathedral.
- Ethnographic Museum: Located in a historic mansion in the Mangalem Quarter, this is one of the best ethnographic museums in Albania.
- Bulevardi Republika: The main promenade beside the park and Osum River. The views of Berat Castle and the Mangalem Quarter are beautiful from here.
- Gorica Quarter: Historic Christian side across the Osum River. Cross the Gorica Bridge and visit St. Spiridon Orthodox Church while there.
See my full list of what to do in Berat here
Where to Stay in Berat
The best area to stay in Berat is the centre, not up by the Castle where the roads are cobblestone, steep and narrow.
Luxury hotel: Beratino Hotel
Mid-priced hotel: Hotel Mangalemi
Budget hotel: Ador Boutique Hotel
Where to Eat in Berat
Berat has good restaurants; below are some of my favourites.
Try the local specialty Vienezi i Berati, which is steak rolled around cheese and walnuts, coated in breadcrumbs and fried.
- Zgara Zaloshnja: Traditional restaurant in the centre. They make a delicious Vienezi i Berati.
- Eni Traditional Food: Located on the Gorica side, they serve wonderful Albanian specialties. The qofte (meat balls) in onion sauce is amazing.
- Rus Restaurant: Casual restaurant that serves a mix of Greek and Albanian cuisine in the centre. Food is displayed cafeteria style, so you can see what looks good.
Gjirokaster Mini Guide – What to Do, Where to Stay & Where to Eat
What to See in Gjirokaster
The old town of Gjirokaster is more compact than Berat. You’ll be able to cover the main sites in one day.
- Gjirokaster Castle: 12th century well preserved castle with a military museum, prison cells, watchtowers, armaments, cold war tunnels and bunkers.
- Old Bazaar: The heart of Gjirokaster and where most visitors flock. It’s from the 17th century, but beautifully restored with all sorts of shops, restaurants and cafes.
- Skenduli House: Well preserved Ottoman era mansion, still owned by the Skenduli family.
- Zekate House: A fortress mansion built in 1811 with wonderful frescoes and amazing views of the town and Drino River Valley.
- Ali Pasha Bridge: Ottoman era aqueduct bridging both sides of a valley. You can still cross it on foot. It’s a 2 km hike from Gjirokaster.
Where to Stay in Gjirokaster
It’s best to stay in the historic centre, but not right by the Ottoman bazaar. That is the busiest tourist area of town.
Mid-priced hotel: Hotel Gjirokastra
Budget hotel: Guest House Mele
Where to Eat in Gjirokaster
Make sure to try the local specialty qifqi, herbed rice balls cooked in a special pan. I like these restaurants in Gjirokaster:
- Corner of Bazaar: Traditional restaurant with nice outdoor terrace and mountain views. Make a reservation – this place gets busy.
- Vojsava Restaurant: Located on one of the cobblestone streets in the Old Town. Lots of vegetarian options.
- Zahire: Very atmospheric location next to the Bazar Mosque. Mix of traditional Albanian foods and pasta.
How Long Should You Stay in Berat and Gjirokaster?
It’s nice to stay overnight in Gjirokaster, but you don’t have to. I feel like you can see the city pretty well on a day trip. But if you have time, an overnight trip is better because you’ll be able to enjoy the city after the tourist crowds leave.
When I visited Gjirokaster I used a private transfer (because my dog was with me) and stopped at Syri i Kalter (the Blue Eye) on my way back to Saranda. You can also do a more budget friendly version of that with this highly rated Blue Eye and Gjirokaster Day Tour.
Berat is larger and most visitors stay one or two nights. I think 2 or 3 nights in Berat is perfect. There’s definitely enough to see to keep you busy for 2 days at a leisurely pace.
The first time I visited Berat was as a day trip from Vlore, and I regretted that decision almost immediately. I went back a year later and stayed 5 days. Berat is that nice!
How to See Both
You may not have to choose between Berat or Gjirokaster. They’re only 158 km away from each other, and if you have time it’s pretty easy to travel between the two.
Check out my highlights of Albania two week itinerary to see how to visit both Gjirokaster and Berat.
The easiest way to travel between two is to drive. I’ve rented cars a few times and found driving in Albania easy.
Despite the terrible reputation Albanian drivers have, I thought they were courteous and better than in other Mediterranean countries.
Searching for affordable car rental in Albania?
I’ve had good experience with DiscoverCars to hire from a local agent. They often have the best rates.
Click here to browse the listings at DiscoverCars.com
There’s also a daily bus between Berat and Gjirokaster. It cost 1000 lek ($12 USD) and takes 3 hours.
Last Words on Berat or Gjirokaster: Which Historic UNESCO City is Better?
My personal preference is Berat, but they are both beautiful and worth visiting. If you have limited time in Albania, I would base my decision on which is closer, Berat or Gjirokaster. You really can’t go wrong with either.
