Highlights of Albania Two Week Itinerary: With & Without a Car

Albania is a country that seems to have it all: a stunning alpine region, historic villages, incredible beaches, Byzantine ruins, even a thriving viticulture. This two week itinerary will take you through all of it, so you can experience the best of Albania!

You can follow this two week itinerary by renting a car, or using the Albania bus system. I’ve explored both ways, and will show you exactly how to do it, with and without a car.

If you’ve been considering Albania, go now! While it’s still one of Europe’s under the radar travel destinations, that’s starting to change fast. Word is getting out just how stunning Albania is.

Albania Two Week Itinerary At a Glance

You’ll stay in six places, moving every two or three days. It’s a fairly active itinerary, but you’ll see the Albanian Alps, UNESCO cities and the Riviera without changing hotels every night.

Best Time for this Two Week Itinerary

Shoulder season is the best time for this two week Albania itinerary: May 1 to June 15, and September 1 to October 15. The weather is pleasant, and it’s not as crowded or expensive as in summer. Theth should be accessible by May 1, but if there has been a lot snow, hiking may be limited.

Spring is also very nice (March and April). All the almond trees and jasmine are blooming, and the air smells amazing. It’s my favourite time to visit Albania, though the sea is cool for swimming. And hardly any tourists!

July and August are peak season. Temperatures can reach 40 C (104 F), it’s busy, and more expensive. If you are planning to travel during summer, book your hotels and car rental well in advance.

Winters in Albania can be cold and rainy, and there will be snow in the alpine region. It can be nice, but I wouldn’t want to be on the mountain roads at that time of year.

Albania Two Week Itinerary

If you’re flying, you’ll be arriving in Tirana. Get some cash at the airport ATM because you’ll need it for incidentals and the bus (if you’re not renting a car). Albania is a cash first society.

Day 1 – 3 Shkoder (Theth & Lake Koman)

Using Shkoder as your base, you’ll explore the beautiful alpine village of Theth, Lake Koman and the Shala River, known as the Thailand of Albania.

While most visitors use Shkoder as the gateway for exploring the Albanian Alps, Shkoder is a worthwhile destination on its own. It’s the oldest city in Albania and the historic capital.

By Car: Pick up your rental at the airport and make your way to Shkoder. It’s mostly highway all the way from Tirana. Make sure you have some lek for the toll fee. Shkoder is 80 km from Tirana, the drive takes about 1.5 hours. On the way to Shkoder you can stop at Kallmet Winery for a tasting, or the small city of Lezhe for lunch. Bistro Serrani is good.

By Bus: From the airport there’s the Hermes shuttle bus, with several daily departures. There’s also a shared taxi service TOTA.

There are also buses throughout the day from Tirana’s South North Bus Terminal, and several from the East Gate bus station. Last time I took this bus it was 500 lek ($6 USD), which is paid in cash to the driver. It takes 2 hours.

Day 1: Explore Shkoder

Explore Albania’s traditional capital, Shkoder today. This is a vibrant small city with a great mix of beauty, culture and history. Apart from Rozafa Castle, all the sites are in the centre and very walkable.

• Rozafa Castle: Originally built in the 4th or 3rd century BC, the castle is Shkoder’s most famous site. Lovely location overlooking the city. It’s 3 km from the centre, either drive or take the local bus.
• Site of Witness & Memory: Museum dedicated to victims of the brutal communist regime in a building used as a prison.
• Marubi National Museum of Photography: Located in a historic building, the museum is one of Shkoder’s best.
• Old Town Shkoder: Rruga Kole Idromeno is the heart of Shkoder’s old town, a quaint area with cafes, shops and restaurants.
• Saint Francis Church: Catholic church known for its anti-communist paintings inside.
• The Nativity of Christ Cathedral: One of the largest Orthodox churches in Albania.  
• Ebu Bekr Mosque: An imposing mosque built in 1994 after the fall of communism. Known as the Great Mosque of Shkoder, it was built on the site of a historic mosque which was destroyed by the communist regime.

Day 2: Day Trip to Theth

Theth is an extremely scenic mountain village in the Albanian Alps, and a stop here is essential on a two week itinerary. The drive from Shkoder is one of the most magnificent mountain drives I have ever experienced.

If you have an extra day, this is the best place to take it by staying overnight in Theth. You can visit Theth as a daytrip from Shkoder, but it’s a long day.

Hike to Syri i Kalter, or Grunas Waterfalls and enjoy the stunning alpine scenery. Enjoy a meal at Gurra Family Restaurant or Villa Gjecaj Restaurant before heading back to Shkoder.

By Car: Take the SH21 highway from Shkoder. It’s 80 km in distance and will take 2 hours.

By Bus: Take the Ferry Berisha bus from Hotel Rozafa in Shkoder. It departs at early in the morning and takes 3 hours. The bus departs Theth from the Mini Market Jezerca twice a day.

Day 3: Koman Lake & Shala River

Taking the ferry from Koman Lake up the Shala River will probably be one of your more memorable Albania memories on this two week itinerary. I’ve done this journey, and it really is stunning.

The Shala River originates in the mountains, and its crystal clear water feeds into Koman Lake. The river is often dubbed the Thailand of Albania because of the towering limestone cliffs on both sides. If the weather is warm, bring a suit and towel so you can go for a dip.

Book your ferry ticket (with optional pick up from Shkoder) at Berisha Ferries Shala River Ferry website.

By Car: The Koman Lake ferry terminal is in the town of Koman, just under a 2 hour drive from Shkoder.

By Bus: There is a mini-bus that departs from the Rozafa Hotel early in the morning for Lake Koman and leaves Koman in the afternoon. The drive takes about 2 hours.

Where to Stay in Shkoder

Try to stay in the centre near Sheshi Demokracia (Democratic Square), so you can explore the sites of Shkoder on foot. This is also near the historic centre. These are well located and excellent hotels in Shkoder:

Luxury hotel: Hotel Colloseo
Mid-priced hotel: Hotel Mozart
Budget hotel: In Town Guest House Shkoder

Where to Eat in Shkoder

I recently spent over two weeks in Shkoder trying different restaurants. Puri and Genti Breakfast & Restaurant are a couple of my favourite places to eat in Shkoder.

Day 4 & 5: Berat (Osumi Canyon)

Spend the next 2 nights in Berat (UNESCO), the city of a thousand windows. With cobbled streets, a hilltop castle, ancient churches and Ottoman style houses on the hillsides, it’s a charming town.

Berat is my favourite Albanian city in this two week itinerary. I first visited Berat as day trip and realized I wanted to come back for longer. A year later I returned and stayed 5 nights. It’s that charming!

By Car: It’s a 3 hour drive from Shkoder to Berat, just under 200 km. Start early so you can take your time and make an optional stop at Cobo Winery. There’s several vineyards in the Berat region, but this is one of my favourites.

By Bus: There is no direct bus from Shkoder to Berat, you will have to change buses in Tirana. To make your life easier, take a Shkoder-Tirana bus that goes to Tirana’s South North Bus Terminal. That is the same bus station the Berat buses leave from.

Make sure you have lek to pay the drivers. The journey will take 5+ hours.

Day 4: Explore Berat

Berat is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and charming small city with a historic Ottoman side (Mangalem Quarter) and Christian side (Gorica Quarter). The Osum River runs through Berat, separating the two areas.

You’ll probably get in later in the day, so explore the castle and save the rest of the sites for the next day.

• Berat Castle: One of Albania’s largest fortifications, still mostly intact. Within the castle walls visit Holy Trinity Church, St. Mary of Blachernae Church (stunning frescoes), and Onufri Iconographic Museum.
• Mangalem Quarter: Explore the windy cobblestone lanes of this historic Ottoman area. Visit the Lead Mosque and Gate of the Pasha. Mangalem is below the castle, so walk through there after the castle if you have time.
• Ethnographic Museum: Set in a historic home, the museum highlights the culture and traditions of Berat.
• St. Michael’s Church: Historic Orthodox church perched above the Gorica Quarter. It’s a short hike uphill. Wonderful views.

Day 5: Osumi Canyon

Start the day by visiting Osumi Canyon, known as Albania’s Grand Canyon. Osumi is a spectacular river gorge that is 13 km long. You can hike a perimeter walk (18 km – not recommended in summer), or drive the paved road on the east side.

If you don’t have a car, I highly recommend booking a tour for this one. While not absolutely necessary, it will be much easier to explore the canyon.

⭐ Book this highly rated day tour to Osumi Canyon from Berat that includes Bogove Waterfall ⭐

Once you return to Berat, explore the sites you didn’t get to the day before.

By Car: Osumi Canyon starts just south of the town of Corovode, which is an hour’s drive from Berat. Follow the main road straight down beside the Osumi River.

By Bus: There are several buses each day to Corovode, the nearest town to Osumi Canyon. From Corovode it’s still about 8 km.

Where to Stay in Berat

Berat isn’t that big, but staying very central is always a good idea so you can easily explore on foot. These are the hotels I recommend in Berat:

Luxury hotel: Hotel Plaza Berat
Mid-priced hotel: Beratino Hotel
Budget hotel: Hotel Ajka

Where to Eat in Berat

Berat has quite a few beautiful restaurants that serve traditional Albanian food. My favourites Berat restaurants are Zgara Zaloshnja and Eni Traditional Food.

Day 6 & 7: Gjirokaster

Today you’ll visit Gjirokaster, an enchanting medieval stone city and UNESCO World Heritage Site. The historic centre is beautifully preserved, and home to a 12th century castle and Ottoman era bazaar.

By Car: The distance between Berat and Gjirokaster is 186 km. The drive takes about 2 hours.

By Bus: There is one bus daily at 2:00 pm from Berat to Gjirokaster. The bus takes about 3 hours.

Day 6 & 7: Explore Gjirokaster

All the sites are in the historic centre and walkable, but a lot of it is uphill. I’d start with the Castle, then the Ottoman Bazaar and the other sites.

• Gjirokaster Castle: 12th century castle with a military museum and spectacular views of the town and mountains.
• Ottoman Bazaar: Historic market first established in the 17th century. It’s beautifully restored. Lots of restaurants, cafes and shops. Very charming.
• Skenduli House: Traditional 300 year old Ottoman house. The grandest home in Gjirokaster, still owned by the Skenduli family.
• Ismail Kadare House: The childhood home of Albania’s most famous and revered writer.
• Ethnographic Museum: Birthplace and family home of Albania’s communist dictator, Enver Hoxha. The current home was rebuilt in 1966 after a fire destroyed the original. Apparently many items in the museum were confiscated from local families during communism.
• Cold War Tunnel: Huge underground bunker built by the communist regime in the 1960s.

Day 7 Car Option: Day Trip to Benja Hot Springs & Permet

If you drove to Gjirokaster you may have time to visit Permet and the Benja Hot Springs. Both are off the beaten path gems, giving your 2 week Albania itinerary serious cultural authenticity.

The Benja Hot Springs are a series of mineral pools known for their healing qualities. They’re located beside the historic Kadiu Bridge and the setting is stunning. You can continue to walk further upstream to Langarica Canyon which is a nice hike.

You’ll have to go through the town of Permet to reach the hot springs. This would be a great spot to have a meal and enjoy the slow food scene that Permet is known for. Te Culi is my favourite restaurant.

Where to Stay in Gjirokaster

Gjirokaster is quite small. As long as you’re staying in the town you’ll be able to walk everywhere. These are well located hotels:

Mid-priced hotel: Hotel Gjirokastra
Mid-priced hotel: The Stone Sky Hotel
Budget hotel: Guest House Mele

Where to Eat in Gjirokaster

There are several very good restaurants in Gjirokaster. I really like Corner of Bazaar and Vojsava Restaurant.

Day 8 & 9: Saranda (Syri i Kalter, Butrint & Ksamil)

Finally, you’re heading to the Albanian Riviera! This is one of the most stunning regions of Albania. Start in Saranda, a beautiful small city on the Ionian Sea.

Saranda is actually an expat favourite, with many nomads calling it home for several months each year, including me.

By Car: It’s an easy drive down to Saranda. It’s just under 52 km. On your way stop at Syri i Kalter, it’s only a slight detour.

By Bus: There are several buses daily from Gjirokaster to Saranda. It’s an hour’s journey. Some of these buses stop at Syri i Kalter (the Blue Eye), but not all – inquire ahead of time. To get to Saranda from Syri i Kalter you’ll take the same bus.

You could also just visit Syri i Kalter as a day trip from Saranda. There’s a bus from the centre that goes there and back.

Day 8: Explore Saranda

Saranda doesn’t have a lot of sites, the real pleasure of the city is in enjoying the seaside location. The best things to see in Saranda are:

• Lekuresi Castle: Built in 1537, the castle is mostly famous for the spectacular sunset views over Saranda and the sea. Come early to get a good seat and order a drink.
• Beachfront Promenade: A lovely 2 km seaside promenade. Lots of restaurants and cafes. Limani Bar Restaurant has great tables on the water.
• Synagogue Basilica ruins: The site of a 5th century synagogue, later converted into an Orthodox basilica. A bit underwhelming, but free.
• Era Beach: The nicest beach in Saranda. I like casual Shark Bar on that beach. You’ll have to pay for a sunbed and umbrella.

Day 9: Butrint National Park (UNESCO) & Ksamil

Butrint National Park is one of the most unique sites in Albania, and ruins like these give real depth to a two week itinerary. It’s a rare combination of archeological history and nature. UNESCO calls it “a microcosm of Mediterranean history.”

It’s a huge national park with fantastic ruins from several eras. Very worth seeing. I took my dog there and he loved the nature and trails, and I loved the ruins.

Ksamil is Albania’s famous beach area, the reason why the Riviera is called the Maldives of Europe. These beaches are one of Albania’s most famous things to do and a must on any two week itinerary. I find Ksamil over commercialized, but the beaches are great for an afternoon to cool off.

Butrint National Park and Ksamil are very close to Saranda, and near each other.

By Car: Take the coastal highway all the way to the end. That’s where Butrint National Park is. You’ll drive through Ksamil. It’s 18 km from Saranda. Go early because the traffic can be terrible. On the way back, stop in Ksamil.

By Bus: There’s a bus that goes to Butrint and stops in Ksamil on the way. There are 2 bus stops in Saranda: in front of Shkolla 9 Tetori on Rruga Idriz Alidhima and on Rruga Skenderbeau across from the Basilica – Synagogue ruins. Go to Butrint first, and then take the same bus to Ksamil after.

I’ve taken this bus, and it gets super crowded in summer with everyone heading to Ksamil. Go early and get on at the Shkolla 9 Tetori stop for a better chance of getting a seat. Take the same bus back to Saranda after. There are several bus stops along the main road in Ksamil.

Where to Stay in Saranda

It’s best to stay in the centre of Saranda, behind the main bit of the promenade, or in the Kodra area behind the port.

Luxury hotel: Hotel Vale
Mid-priced hotel: Titania Hotel
Budget hotel: Vila Konomi

Where to Eat in Saranda

There’s a lot of seafood in Saranda, and it’s very good. Some of my favourite places to eat in Saranda are Taste of Tradition and Taverna Ulson.

Day 10 & 11: Himare (Coastal Towns)

Himare is further up the coast, much smaller and quieter than Saranda. It’s one of the most culturally Greek towns in Albania. You’ll hear just as much Greek on the streets as Albanian. I much preferred Himare to Ksamil.

By Car: Drive straight up the coast on the SH8. It’s a scenic drive, one of the best in Albania. The distance is 56 km and will take just over an hour.

By Bus: There are lots of daily buses. Most of them will be going on to Vlore, but will drop you in Himare if you ask. The ride takes 1.5 hours.

Day 10: Explore Himare

A good plan for Himare is to visit the Castle in the morning, and the beach in the afternoon.

• Beaches: Spille Beach and Prinos Beach are in town, Livadhi and Llamani are nicer, but 4 km from town.
• Himare Castle & Old Town: Historic old town with castle and great mountain views. Very charming. It’s 2 km uphill from the centre. I took a cab there for 500 lek ($6 USD).
• Boat Tours: Tours to secluded beaches. The boat tour stands are along the promenade in front of Spille Beach.
• Waterfront Promenade: Lots of restaurants, bars and cafes – where most of the activity is.

Day 11: Explore the Coast

If you’ve got a car you can visit secluded beaches like Gjipe, Jale, or more popular Borsh. Explore Porto Palermo Castle, coastal villages like Qeparo Fushe, Lukove, Vuno or Dhermi. This is one the most beautiful areas of Albania.

There’s more information on these towns in my Albanian Riviera Guide.

If you’re doing this by bus, I would pick one coastal town (Dhermi or Borsh are good options), and take one of the buses that is going in the direction you are (Vlore bus for Dhermi and Saranda bus for Borsh).

Drivers will let you off enroute if you tell them in advance. It’s common practice in Albania. To return to Himare you’ll have to ask the driver or the locals about when and where to get the bus.

Where to Stay in Himare

Himare is very small. I like staying on the side where Spille Beach is (as opposed to the side where Prinos Beach is). That’s the best spot for being near everything. These are well located hotels:

Luxury hotel: Rea Boutique Hotel
Mid-priced hotel: Guesthouse 1932
Budget hotel: Ylli’s Rooms

Where to Eat in Himare

Himare has terrific seafood and Albanian and Greek dishes. Himara 28 and Lefteri’s Tavern were my favourites.

Day 12 – 14: Tirana (Kruja)

Tirana is a small and quirky capital famous for its cafe culture, radical new towers and fantastic street art. Base yourself close to Skanderbeg Square to be close to the sites.

You won’t need a car to explore the capital, so consider dropping it off. You can take a taxi or the airport shuttle to head back to the airport. Tirana is very walkable and best explored on foot.

By Car: It’s about a 4 hour drive from Himare. The first part is nice along the coastal highway and through the Llogara Pass which has spectacular views.

By Bus: There are several daily buses to Tirana from Himare. They depart from Riviera Tours. If the bus stops in Vlore the journey is 5 hours. It’ll be shorter if it skips Vlore.

You’ll arrive at the South North Bus Terminal in Tirana. You can take the no. 5B bus to the centre. It leaves from across the street.

Day 12: Explore Tirana

These are the best things to see in Tirana. They are all within walking distance of each other. The best place to start is Skanderbeg Square.

• Skanderbeg Square: Tirana’s largest square, the unofficial centre of the city, and where all major public events happen.
• Et’hem Bey Mosque: One of Albania’s oldest mosques. Beautiful frescoes inside. Located in Skanderbeg Square.
• Bunk’Art 2: Actual bunker of the former communist regime, now a museum dedicated to the victims of communism. A must-see site to understand Albania’s brutal dictatorship.
• Pyramid of Tirana: Very unique pyramid structure originally built as the mausoleum for the former dictator, but now public space.
• Blloku Neighbourhood & Enver Hoxha’s former home: Trendy area which was off limits to Albanians during communism. The former dictator’s home is in the neighbourhood.
• Namazgah Mosque: Beautiful mosque – one of the largest in the Balkans.

Day 13: Day Trip to Kruja

Kruja is a historic mountain town, only 40 km from Tirana. To get to Kruja from Tirana, take the Kruja bus from the South North Bus Terminal.

Albania’s national hero Skanderbeg was born in Kruja, and there’s a fantastic museum dedicated to him. Explore the Castle of Kruja, the 400 year old Ottoman bazaar, the Ethnographic Museum and eat the local specialty dessert, kabuni.

When I did this day trip, it took me 8 hours from when I left my Airbnb to when I returned, using public buses and the furgon to get to Kruja. And I did a lot of exploring, visited hotels and had a leisurely lunch.

Day 14: Depart Tirana

If you have time before you leave, you can visit House of Leaves, Resurrection of Christ Cathedral, or Shtepite Studio Kadare-Agolli (former apartments of Ismail Kadare and Dritero Agolli).

Take time to experience the coffee culture, or just walk the streets and admire the unusual architecture and street art.

Where to Stay in Tirana

There are lots of great hotels and guesthouses in Tirana. If you’re only there for a couple of days, stay in the centre, close to Skanderbeg Square. I like these hotels in Tirana:

Luxury hotel: Maritim Hotel Plaza Tirana
Mid-priced hotel: Hotel Colosseo
Budget hotel: Albanopolis

Where to Eat in Tirana

There are some great places to eat in Tirana. Tirana has excellent seafood (it’s only 35 km from the coast) and Albanian dishes. Some of my favourite restaurants are Era Picera, Oda Restaurant and Detari Fish.

Car & Bus Tips for this Itinerary

Here’s some practical tips I’ve learned by travelling around Albania by car and bus.

Albania Two Week Itinerary by Car

A car is the easiest way to follow this itinerary and gives you much more freedom for places like Osumi Canyon, Permet and the Riviera. You don’t need a 4WD, a small SUV or mid-size sedan is a good choice for Albanian roads.

I’ve driven extensively in Albania and found it easier than driving in some other Mediterranean countries. The main roads are generally good, although conditions vary once you get off them.

For rental requirements, driving rules, road conditions and everything else you need to know, see my complete guide to renting a car in Albania.

Albania Two Week Itinerary by Bus

This entire two week Albania itinerary can be done by bus. Despite the bus system being dated, it’s a fairly extensive bus network. See my guide on how to get around Albania without a car for useful tips.

The best website for bus schedules and routing is the Gjirafa website. Buses don’t always stick to the exact schdule (they’ll leave when full and make unscheduled stops), but it’s close enough to give a good idea.

Buy your ticket from the driver, in cash, not online. Buses are often passenger vans or min-buses (furgons). Go early so you can get a seat, and in case it leaves early.

Smaller towns and cities may not have a ‘bus station,’ but they always have a designated corner or spot they leave from. Ask a local where the bus stop is.

Practical Tips for Travel in Albania

1. Carry cash: Albania is a cash first economy. Some places accept credit cards, but not everywhere. Always have cash on hand.
2. Euros are not accepted everywhere: Some vendors like tour agencies and taxis at the airport take euros, but there is no guarantee.
3. Withdraw lek from ATMs: For the best exchange rates select the ‘without conversion’ option. ABI machines have the lowest withdrawal charges.
4. Get a local SIM card: Vodafone has the best coverage. There’s a kiosk at Tirana Airport, and just about every town has a Vodafone shop.

Last Words on Highlights of Albania Two Week Itinerary: With & Without a Car

Whether you’re driving yourself or hopping on buses, this two week highlights of Albania itinerary is designed to give you the best mix of mountains, villages, history and beaches. It covers must-see destinations and sites, giving you a real feel for the country.

With a car, or without a car you can manage this two week itinerary at your own pace, and see why Albania is about to become the next big destination in Europe.

Also Recommended:

• 10 Day Albania Road Trip – See the Whole Country
• 5 Days in Albania Itinerary: Two Routes I Recommend
• 12 Top Places to Visit in Albania

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