Durres or Tirana, Albania: Which is Better?
Tirana and Durres are only 35 km apart, but they are completely different. Tirana is the capital and the largest city in Albania. Durres is a seaside city with beaches and the biggest port in Albania.
I recently spent a month in Tirana and then 10 days in Durres. Both cities have their charms, but which one is better?
I’m going to discuss the features and drawbacks of both cities, so you can make your own decision about Durres or Tirana. By the way, it’s very easy to get to Durres from Tirana.
Tirana or Durres, Albania: Which is Better?
Both cities are good in their own ways. Tirana has a lot more to do than Durres, a vibrant restaurant scene and is a great base to explore other parts of Albania from.
Durres is on the Adriatic sea, so it has a port and beaches. It’s smaller and more laid back than Tirana. You can travel directly to Italy from Durres by ferry.
Tirana Has More Sites and Attractions than Durres
Tirana is bigger than Durres and has more to do.
You can cover Tirana’s main sites in 2 or 3 days easily. On the other hand, it will take half a day to see the sites of Durres!
Tirana’s most popular sites are about the communist dictatorship, like Bunk’Art 2, and the Pyramid. The main attractions are in the centre, and you can walk to them all.
At the moment Tirana doesn’t have a national museum or art gallery. The National Historical Museum is closed until 2028 for renovation, and the old National Art Gallery is closed while a new one is under construction.
In Durres, the main sites are from the Byzantine period. There’s an ancient Roman amphitheatre, Venetian watchtower and Roman baths. They’re not on the same level as the ruins of Italy and Greece, but they’re still interesting and worth seeing.
Durres has the largest archeological museum in Albania, but it’s closed for renovation. It was supposed to re-open in April 2025, but hasn’t yet. Check when you are there, it might be open by then.
Durres is compact. You can easily walk to the main sites which are located in the centre.
Durres Has Beaches
The main reason people visit Durres is the beaches. Durres is on the Adriatic coast and has the longest beach in Albania, over 10 km long! There’s a nice beachfront promenade with all kinds of cafes, restaurants, hotels and bars.
For even nicer beaches, you can take the bus from Durres to Golem. Golem is 20 km south, and there’s a bus every 30 minutes from the stop in front of the Durres Central Bus Terminal. The fare 100 lek ($1.15 USD).
There are no beaches in Tirana. Locals go to Durres for the beaches.
Tirana Has a More Vibrant Restaurant and Food Scene
Tirana is a lot bigger than Durres, so it makes sense that there’s more restaurants. It would be hard to run out of good places to eat in Tirana, but I can imagine running out fairly quickly in Durres.
There’s a great brunch scene in Tirana, which Durres is definitely lacking. But Durres does have more coffee shops than Tirana, so there’s lots of places to grab a coffee and croissant.
Both cities have plenty of seafood restaurants. Even though Durres is on the sea, the seafood in Tirana is just as good.
On the plus side, Durres restaurants in general are less expensive than Tirana. And I was never charged for bread in Durres!
Tirana is Having a Real Estate Boom, Durres is Laid Back
Tirana is rapidly growing and has the buzz of a city on the rise. There is construction everywhere. Massive complexes with some crazy facades and designs are going up all over the city.
I had 3 huge projects within 100 metres of my last Airbnb in Tirana, and I wasn’t even right in the centre.
Durres is much more laid back. The city just seems to move a little slower, and people don’t rush around as much. I didn’t see any construction in the centre when I was there.
Tirana is More Expensive than Durres
I found Durres cheaper than Tirana. Airbnbs and restaurant meals were less expensive in Durres.
Of course, if you visit Durres during peak season (summer), and stay and eat beachfront you will pay more. I stayed in the old part, behind the port. Very local area, but great location if you’re interested in more than the beach. Groceries, meals and accommodation all cost less than in Tirana.
Tirana is still budget friendly compared to other European capitals, but it is not as cheap as some people think.
Which is Better as a Base for Digital Nomads and Slomads?
I stayed and worked remotely from both cities. In my opinion, Tirana is a better base for digital nomads. There’s just more going on, and it’s much easier to explore other parts of Albania from Tirana. Tirana also has an active expat community, so it’s easier to meet people.
But, if you want a slower pace or budget is a big factor, you may prefer Durres.
I had very good Wifi from both cities, and was able to have two way video calls and meetings. The internet was a little slower in Durres (despite being the fastest package), but it was still fine for work.
I didn’t experience power outages in either city.
Is Durres or Tirana Better for Exploring Albania From?
For day trips and exploring other parts of Albania, Tirana is better.
Tirana is in the middle of Albania and has an excellent bus network. It’s easy to head south to Vlore, Saranda, or Ksamil, north to Shkoder, or short getaways to places like Berat or Kruja. You can go anywhere in Albania from Tirana.
Tirana also has buses to other Balkan countries, like Greece, North Macedonia, and Bulgaria.
There’s also many organized day tours from Tirana.
Durres has a limited bus network, and for most destinations you have to travel to Tirana first. There is a Durres to Shkoder bus, but only one each day.
There’s not as many organized day tour options from Durres.
The international airport is 17 km from Tirana and 31 km from Durres. There are airport shuttles from both cities.
You Can Take a Ferry to Italy from Durres
You can easily travel to Italy from Durres on the ferry!
I wanted to do this when I was in Durres, but Bari is the shortest crossing and it’s 7+ hours. The timing didn’t work out for me. But I plan to do this in the future when I can stay in Italy a few days.
There are ferry crossings to Bari and Ancona, Italy. During the summer there are daily crossings. In the off season there’s fewer crossings depending on the month.
Is Durres Worth Visiting?
Durres is a charming seaside city with a relaxed atmosphere. While it doesn’t have a long list of major attractions, I enjoyed wandering the streets, breathing the sea air, and appreciating the slower pace.
It’s definitely worth a visit if you go with the right expectations. Just know it’s more about the vibe than the sights.
That said, if I had to choose just one city to visit, I’d still go with Tirana for its depth and cultural richness.
Here’s a summary of the major differences between Durres and Tirana:
- Tirana has more sites, attractions, and a vibrant restaurant scene, while Durres is more relaxed with fewer sights
- Durres is on the Adriatic coast with long sandy beaches and Tirana is inland with no beaches
- Durres is cheaper overall (accommodation, meals), while Tirana is more expensive but still budget-friendly
- Tirana is a better base for digital nomads and exploring Albania, thanks to its central location and transport links
- Durres has ferries to Italy, adding a unique travel option, while Tirana offers better access to the rest of the Balkans by bus
Where to Stay in Tirana and Durres
In Tirana it is best to stay in the centre so you can walk everywhere. My top hotel recommendations in Tirana are:
Luxury hotel: Maritim Hotel Plaza Tirana
Mid-priced hotel: Hotel Colosseo
Budget hotel: Albanopolis
In Durres it’s best to stay close to Durres Beach (3 km from the centre), or in the centre. I walked and took the local bus between the two. My top hotel recommendations in Durres are:
Durres centre, mid-priced: Art Gallery Boutique Hotel
Durres Beach, mid-priced: Cosmo Beach Hotel
Durres centre, budget: Old Town Villa
Final Words on Durres or Tirana, Albania: Which is Better?
If you can only visit one city, I recommend Tirana. After spending a lot of time there, I found it to be not only the cultural heart of Albania but also the best place to understand its complex communist past.
The city has a unique energy. Its mix of history, food, and everyday life gave me a deeper appreciation for the country than I felt in Durres.
