Why Renting a Car is the Best Way to See Albania

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Renting a car is the best way to experience Albania. This beautiful country has so much more than its beaches and cities, from ancient ruins in the countryside and incredible natural sites to thriving agritourism and traditional wineries. But you’ll need a car to reach many of them.

Don’t get me wrong, I love Albania’s beaches and cities like Tirana and Berat. But some of my favourite experiences in Albania have been off the beaten path, and I never would have found them without renting a car.

Why Renting a Car in Albania is the Best Way to Explore

Temple at Apollonia which you can visit if you rent a car
Apollonia Archeological Park is a 30 minute drive north of Vlore, but there’s no bus

The first few times I went to Albania I stuck to cities like Tirana, Vlore, Saranda and Berat, travelling between them by local bus (furgon). That worked well until I started discovering how many ancient ruins, natural attractions, wineries and agritourism restaurants were in the countryside. I needed a rental car to reach them.

grey SUV car rental on road in Saranda, Albania
I rented this car in Saranda for a weekend to explore nearby sites and agritourisms
ruins at Finiq Archeological Park which I saw by renting a car in Albania
You need a car to reach the ruins of the ancient city of Finiq near Saranda

When I was in Saranda I rented a car for the weekend and visited the ancient city of Finiq, only 12 km outside the city, as well as the 11th century Monastery of St. Nikolas and local agritourism restaurants and wineries.

couple at outdoor table with snow capped Mt Tomorr in background at Cobo Winery
Wine tasting at Cobo Winery near Berat, with views of Mount Tomorr

While staying in Berat I rented a car to visit vineyards, and agritourism restaurants in the countryside, all within a 30 minute drive. With a car you can easily do your own mini wine tour.

These are the kinds of places that made me realize how much of Albania I had been missing by sticking to the cities and travelling by bus.

What You Can Discover Beyond Albania’s Main Cities

Mesi Bridge near Shkoder which I visited by renting a car in Albania
The Mesi Bridge (outside of Shkoder) can be crossed on foot

The best thing about renting a car in Albania is how many interesting places you can visit outside the main cities. There’s so much more to see if you have your own vehicle:

Tips for Renting a Car in Albania

I’ve rented cars many times in Albania, and there are a few things I’ve learned that can make renting a car easier and help you avoid problems.

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When possible rent from a larger, reputable company. The cars are usually in better shape, and it’s easier to get paperwork if you need to make an insurance claim.

I once I got a fantastic deal from a small company in Durres, but when I needed paperwork for an insurance claim, they wouldn’t provide it despite multiple requests. In the end I was out of pocket.

two horses walking along a gravel road in Theth
In some places the roads are still gravel, like in Theth

Book as far in advance as possible. I’ve found rental prices in Albania tend to increase the closer you get to your dates.

Choose a larger car. Most roads in Albania are good, but you’ll come across gravel, dirt and potholes in some areas. I once shredded the tire of a small compact in a massive pothole, so now I choose something larger and higher off the ground.

Make a video of the car when you pick it up, including the exterior, interior, spare tire and license plate. This gives you dated proof of its condition. If you don’t hand the car back to someone when you return it, take another video.

rental car on side of highway near Pogradec, Albania with hills in background
An older Mercedes rental outside of Pogradec – I’m pretty certain this someone’s personal vehicle

Not all cities have car rentals. It’s easy to rent a car in tourist hubs like Tirana, Vlore, Saranda and Shkoder, but I had a hard time finding one in Pogradec. My Airbnb host eventually found someone to rent me a car. I thought it was a rental company, but when the guy showed up with the car, I got the distinct impression it was his personal vehicle. He didn’t even want to see my ID or driver’s license!

Don’t expect a full tank of gas. Of the eight or so car I’ve rented in Albania only one came with a full tank of gas. You’ll be expected to fill the tank to the same level when returning the vehicle.

Read the rental rules carefully because they vary between companies. In particular, check:

  • Driver requirements: Check the minimum and maximum age and whether you’ll need an international driving permit.
  • Insurance and deposit: Check what’s included, whether your credit card provides coverage and how much will be held on your card as a damage deposit.
  • Mileage: It’s often unlimited, but not always.
  • Cross-border travel and ferries: You’ll usually need permission and additional insurance to cross a border, and taking rental cars on ferries may not be permitted.
  • Transmission: Manual cars are common, so specify automatic when booking if that’s what you need.

Driving in Albania: Road Conditions & Local Drivers

flock of sheep blocking highway in Albania, what you see when you a rent a car
A common occurrence on Albanian roads

Road conditions vary widely in Albania. Some highways and main roads are excellent, while others are full of potholes. Secondary roads can be narrow, and you’ll find gravel and dirt roads in some places. In Theth, for example, the road through the mountains to reach the village is very good, but the roads within the village are gravel.

On narrow roads, drivers often pull over to let oncoming cars pass.

narrow road in Albania near Lezhe
This road was too narrow for two cars – I had to pull over to let oncoming vehicles pass

Albania is also one of the most mountainous countries in Europe. It’s almost a certainty that you will have to drive through the mountains in Albania. If you’re nervous just take your time, honk before hairpin turns, and let faster drivers pass you.

Before renting a car in Albania I heard a lot about how terrible and rude the local drivers were, but that hasn’t been my experience. Personally, I find Albanian drivers pretty courteous. They drive fast and often double park, but they stop at crosswalks, and aren’t rude or aggressive if they want to pass. I’ve seen some dangerous passing on mountain roads, but that’s about it.

When to Rent a Car in Albania (and When You Don’t Need One)

Royal Tombs of Selca in Albania and view of mountains, which I reache by renting a car
In Pogradec I wanted a car to visit the Royal Tombs of Selca – I was the only visitor

To travel around Albania and see as much as possible, rent a car. It’s the easiest way and gives you total freedom. Just don’t forget to confirm your accommodation has parking. If you’re doing a road trip, Tirana Airport is an easy place to pick up and return a rental.

If you are spending time in Tirana, you don’t need a car to see the city. Tirana is very walkable, and almost all the sites are in the centre. Traffic is very bad in the city, it’s easier not to have a car in Tirana.

white SUV rental on a road in Saranda
I took this rental in Saranda on a 10 day road trip
Benja hot springs with Ottoman era bridge behind
I visited the Benja Hot Springs near Permet with my rental

I’m usually in Albania for months at a time, and I don’t rent a car for the full duration. I’ll rent one for a road trip, or two or three days at a time to explore the sites outside the city I’m staying in.

If you plan to do the same, keep in mind that smaller, less visited cities may not have rental agencies, especially outside of summer.

Last Words on Why Renting a Car is the Best Way to See Albania

Renting a car in Albania lets you experience so much more of the country’s incredible wine, food, history and natural beauty. Many of the best sites are in the countryside, and there often isn’t a bus. One of my favourite things about visiting these places by car is that they’re off the main tourist trail. There’s no crowds, and many of them are free.

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