How to Get Around Albania Without a Car
It’s not difficult to get around Albania without a car. There’s an extensive bus network, taxis offer intercity transfers and there’s shared rides. You can plan a whole itinerary without driving.
I travel around Albania a lot, most of it without a car. Once in a while I rent a car for a road trip with friends or family, but apart from that I’m without a vehicle. And I do this with a small dog.
How to Get Around Albania Without a Car
This is a country where only the political elite were allowed to own vehicles until 1992, and even after that most people couldn’t afford cars. As a result, Albanians are experts at getting around without a car, and tourists can be too.
The most common way to travel Albania is by bus, but there’s also shared taxis, private transfers, local city buses and even ferries. I’m going to give you information on each one, and when it makes sense to use them so you can plan your trip to Albania.
The Albanian Bus System
Buses are the most common and usually the best way to travel around Albania. The network is extensive, but a bit dated. Vehicles are older, furgons are often used instead of coaches, and schedules can be hard to verify.
If you understand how the Albania bus system works, it’s quite easy to travel the country without a car.
Tips for Using Intercity Buses in Albania
I use buses all the time in Albania and have learned a few tricks, which I’ll share here:
- Use the Gjirafa Travel website to check bus schedules and routes. They have the most up to date information. It is not 100% accurate all the time, but close enough to give you a good idea.
- If possible, go to the bus station the day before and double check the bus schedule. In Albania bus schedules are seasonal – with more buses in peak tourist seasons.
- Bus ‘stations’ are usually not buildings, but big parking lots, like the North South station in Tirana. Sometimes they are specific locations on the side of the road, like in Saranda.
- You have to pay cash in Albanian lek. Sometimes you buy the ticket at a kiosk at the station, like in Tirana for the bus to Saranda, and sometimes you pay on the bus. Drivers may accept euros, but there is no guarantee.
- Departure and arrival times are approximate. Buses tend to leave when full, make unscheduled stops and arrive late. Give yourself plenty of time and show up half an hour before the scheduled departure time.
- Tirana has 2 major bus stations, Tirana East Gate (TEG) and North South Terminal. They are nowhere near each other. Make sure you know which bus station you need. Generally, international buses and those to the east (Korce, Pogradec) leave from TEG, while buses for the Riviera, Durres and Berat leave from the North South station.
Direct Routes & Connections
If possible, choose a direct route. Bus connections are not always straightforward. Connections in Tirana are usually good because it’s a major hub, but smaller cities can be trickier.
I’ve travelled from Durres to Saranda with a bus change in Tirana, which was smooth. An easy bus switch at the North South terminal.
Last year I travelled from Berat to Korce, with a bus change in Elbasan. But in Elbasan, I was dropped at the side of the road without an explanation in English. Locals in the coffee shop told me to flag down a Korce bound bus.
It was confusing, and I ended up in a shared taxi. In the end it worked out because the shared taxi was cheap (1000 lek – $12 USD) and the driver took me right to my Airbnb in Korce. So if you have a bus connection, give yourself plenty of time and be flexible!
Trains in Albania
Albania has almost zero train service. There’s one small route operating, and even locals say it’s better to take the bus.
Using Public City Buses in Albania
Most of Albania’s larger cities have local public buses. It can be hard to find route information online, but I use Google maps and select the public transit option to get local bus routes. It’s not perfect, but close enough.
Bus fare is usually 40 lek ($0.50 USD), but I recently paid 30 lek in Berat. The fare has to be paid in cash to the bus conductor who will come around to collect it and give you a paper ticket.
How & When to Use Private Transfers
In Albania, almost all taxis offer private transfers. This is a good alternative to the buses. It’s a more expensive option, but still affordable compared to private transfers in other European countries.
Below are the companies I’ve used for private transfers, but I’ve also just approached taxis on the street and asked for a quote. If the price sounds too high, just ask the next driver.
Taxi Companies for Private Transfers
- Taxi Landi: Tirana based, but provides transfers all over Albania and internationally. I used them from Vlore for a day trip to Berat, and again when I travelled to Montenegro from Albania. They’re reliable and pet friendly.
- Saranda Eco Taxi: Based in Saranda, and great for travelling around the Albanian Riviera. I used them a couple of times for transfers to Ksamil and Himare. Good drivers and clean cars.
- Taxi-Lux: Tirana taxi company that provides transfers. I used them to travel to Durres from Tirana.
I hate spending more than I have to on transportation, but if I’m short on time, there’s no direct bus, or I’m staying far from the bus station I’ll sometimes arrange a private transfer.
Shared Taxis
If private transfers are too expensive but buses don’t work for your route, there’s sometimes a middle option, shared taxis.
Albania has them, but not everywhere, and I’ve never seen them advertised. I took one from Elbasan to Korce, but it was unplanned. It was very affordable, 1000 lek ($12 USD) for a 2.5 hour ride, and he took me right to my Airbnb.
The best way to find out if there are any shared taxis is to inquire on one of the Albania FB pages, like Visit Albania or Expats in Albania.
You could also inquire about sharing a ride with someone who’s driving to your destination. I see posts like that from time to time on these FB pages.
Ferries in Albania
Ferries are not a major form of transportation in Albania, but there are a few routes travellers should know about.
There are two ferry routes on Lake Komani. One is a recreational route to the Shala River, and the other connects Koman with Fierze. The Fierze ferry is often used by hikers heading to or from Valbona.
Both routes are extremely scenic, and the ferry ride across Lake Komani is considered one of the most beautiful in the world.
There are also international ferries which connect Albania with Italy and Greece. Some routes are strictly seasonal, while others offer reduced service off season:
- Durres to Bari, Italy
- Durres to Ancona, Italy
- Vlore to Brindisi, Italy
- Saranda to Corfu, Greece
What to Do When There is No Public Option
If there is no bus, you have to arrange a private transfer or shared taxi. Some tour companies offer transportation to popular destinations, like to Komani Lake with Komani Lake Ferry Berisha.
Another option is to hitch-hike. Albania is a very safe country, so it’s probably not dangerous in that regard, but I’m not that adventurous personally.
How to Get to Remote Villages
If you’re heading to a remote village that’s not on a bus route, take the bus that takes you the closest to the village or passes close to the village, and ask the driver to drop you off enroute.
Albanian buses make unscheduled stops all the time, so this is not out of the ordinary. Try to arrange a pickup with your accommodation. They’ll know where the bus drop off point is for their village.
Combining Modes of Transportation
Now that you know what types of transportation are available in Albania, you can combine them to get to anywhere you want to go.
For example, if you want to tour the Albanian Riviera, it makes sense to take the bus from Tirana to your first destination on the Riviera, and then take private transfers if your next location is not far away. For travel between Saranda and Ksamil you can take the local bus.
Safety & Risks of Travelling in Albania Without a Car
One question I often hear is whether travelling around Albania without a car is safe.
Using private transfers is the safest and most risk-free way for non-drivers to get around Albania. Taxi/private transfer drivers are experienced and familiar with road conditions. This is also the fastest way, and you’re less likely to encounter delays.
Bus drivers are also experienced, but there’s a risk of the bus not departing or arriving on schedule. It’s important to give yourself extra time.
Where to Go in Albania Without a Car – Best Routes
These are routes that work well for exploring Albania using public transit like buses and ferries.
Albanian Riviera Routes
There are buses that use the coastal highway and stop at the different towns along the Albanian Riviera. These are suggested itineraries, but you can easily customize them.
- Tirana • Vlore • Saranda • Corfu, Greece (ferry) • Saranda • Gjirokaster • Tirana
- Tirana • Saranda • Ksamil • Saranda • Berat • Tirana
- Tirana • Dhermi • Himare • Saranda • Berat • Tirana
Northern Albania Route
Shkoder is the gateway to the Albanian Alps and nearest city to Lake Komani and the Shala River – Albania’s fjords. This route takes you to the most popular sites in Albania’s north.
- Tirana • Shkoder • Valbona (Lake Komani ferry & bus) • Theth (hike from Valbona) • Shkoder • Tirana
Off the Beaten Path Route
This itinerary is great for someone who wants to get away from the main tourist trail. Tirana and Berat are very popular, but spots like Korce and Elbasan are hidden gems.
Last Words on How to Get Around Albania Without a Car
I know thinking about travelling around Albania with no vehicle can be daunting, especially when you read the negative things about the bus system on the internet, but it’s really not that bad.
Once you figure out how the buses operate and how to get a reasonably priced private transfer you can easily go anywhere you want. The key is to just give yourself a little time because Albanians don’t rush!
