Where to Stay on the Albanian Riviera
The Albanian Riviera has many beautiful villages, towns and small cities. It can be difficult figuring out where to stay if you’ve never been before. When I was planning my own first trip to Albania, I remember looking at a map of the Riviera and having no idea where I should stay.
Now that I’ve been up and down the Albanian Riviera several times and stayed at many of these places, I have a much better idea!
For beach hopping there’s Ksamil, nature lovers will enjoy Himare, Vlore is perfect for those on a quick break, Vuno is great if you want to get away from it all, and Saranda is everyone’s favourite.
I’m going to list the best places along the Riviera and point out some pros and cons, so you can decide for yourself where to stay.
What is the Albanian Riviera?
The Albanian Riviera is a 120 km stretch of beautiful coastline with clear, aquamarine water. It starts at the city of Vlore, where the Adriatic and Ionian seas meet. It continues all the way down to the Greek border.
The Riviera is on the Ionian Sea, and famous for its clear, aquamarine water. The coastline is rugged and steep in many spots, with villages and small towns along the main highway and beaches down below on the seafront.
Do you Need a Car to Stay on the Albanian Riviera?
That really depends on how much travelling you plan to do between places. If you are planning on beach hopping and exploring different destinations along the Riviera it’s better to have a car.
I always rent cars from Discover Cars in Albania. I’ve had good experience using them. The last time I drove the Riviera I rented a car from them in Saranda and it worked out well.
Bigger destinations like Vlore and Saranda have relatively good bus service, but the smaller spots don’t. Most buses that service Vlore and Saranda bypass the coastal highway and use a faster in-land route. Only a few take the coastal road and stop at the smaller towns.
It is possible to do the entire Riviera by bus, or private transfers (taxis), but it will take a little more planning and time.
Here’re more information about getting around Albanian without a car.
Where to Stay on the Albanian Riviera
These are the villages, towns and cities that are worth staying in along the Albanian Riviera. My favourite spot on the entire Albanian Riviera is Saranda. I stay there for about a month each spring. I also really like the smaller beach town of Himare.
I’ve listed the major destinations first, and then the smaller and more off the beaten path ones.
1. Vlore
Vlore is the largest city on the Albanian Riviera, it’s also where the Riviera starts. It’s well connected by bus to Tirana, Saranda and other cities making it a great starting point if you don’t have a vehicle.
Here’s the thing about Vlore – it’s the start of the Riviera, so the beaches in town are okay, but not great. Water quality is also an issue sometimes in summer. The better beaches start south of Vlore, in Radhime.
But, Vlore is great off season and shoulder season because it’s a year-round city. There’s lots of restaurants, hotels and things to see and do, like Vlore Old Town and the ancient city of Apollonia.
The beachfront promenade the centre of activity in Vlore. If you’re there for the beaches, stay further down the promenade away from the centre where the beach is better. If you want to explore the town also, stay closer to Boulevard Ismail Qemali. My top picks to stay in Vlore are:
- Luxury hotel: Abi’s Hotel & Spa
- Mid-priced hotel: Sasso Hotel
- Budget hotel: Ulcas Guest Huse
2. Saranda
Saranda is a lovely small city directly on the waterfront. The city hugs the Bay of Saranda, and there are gorgeous views of Corfu, Greece and the Ionian Sea from everywhere. It’s smaller than Vlore, but considered the capital of the Albanian Riviera.
Saranda has a relaxed, Mediterranean vibe and many expats return each year (like me) or stay long term. The public beach is right in the centre, and there are even better beaches within a 10-15 minute walk.
The city has banks, shops, restaurants, hotels, and cafes. Saranda doesn’t have many sites itself, but it’s an excellent base for exploring southern Albania, like Gjirokaster and Butrint National Park. It’s also very easy to do a day trip to Corfu, Greece from Saranda.
Outside of the centre Saranda is very steep. It’s best to stay in Kodra or in the centre close to the promenade. These are my favourite places to stay in Saranda:
- Luxury hotel: Hotel Vale
- Mid-priced hotel: Vila Era Beach
- Budget hotel: Vila Konomi
3. Ksamil
Ksamil is Albania’s premiere beach resort town. It is famous for white sand beaches and clear aquamarine water. Albanians like to call it the Maldives of Europe.
This is very much a tourist driven town and commercialized. If you’re looking for a more cultural location, this isn’t the place (stay in Saranda and visit Ksamil for the day). But if all you want to do is enjoy the beach and maybe a day trip somewhere, you’ll probably like it.
There are no public or free beaches in Ksamil. You’ll have to pay for an umbrella and lounger unless you have a car and go out of town. Ksamil is also the most expensive travel destination in Albania. While still cheaper than Italy or Greece, it’s not the bargain it was a few years ago.
Personally, I prefer Himare to Ksamil in terms of small beach towns. Himare is quieter and more culturally authentic. Here’s my top picks on where to stay in Ksamil:
- Luxury hotel: Poda Boutique Hotel
- Mid-priced hotel: Emar Beachfront Hotel
- Budget hotel: Vila Sun 2e
4. Himare
I spent a week in Himare and enjoyed it so much more than Ksamil. It’s a little smaller and not nearly as commercialized. It’s also surrounded by nature – I took some really nice short hikes through the pine forest and along the coast.
It’s right in the middle of the Riviera, so makes an excellent base for exploring the smaller towns and secluded beaches along the coast. There’s a very distinct Greek culture and Himare Castle and Old Town is just 3 km away.
Himare has all the main amenities and an authentic small town charm. I took the Tirana-Himare bus when leaving, so decent bus connectivity.
The town of Himare is kind of split in half. Spille Beach and the centre are on one side, and the better hotels and Prinos Beach are on the other. Spille Beach area has a lot more activity and I prefer this area. My recommendations for Himare are:
- Luxury hotel: Rea Boutique Hotel
- Mid-priced hotel: Elpis Guesthouse
- Budget hotel: Ylli’s Rooms
5. Dhermi
The village of Dhermi used to be quiet, but is becoming more popular each year. The picturesque village sits on a mountainside, while the beach area is about 2 km down.
The upper village is very authentic with cobblestone lanes, little churches and white washed houses. There’s a really nice historic hiking trail from the village to the sea. The beach area is more developed with restaurants and small hotels.
Dhermi is no longer a hidden gem – it will be busy and more expensive in summer. I was there in April and it was already getting busy.
If you’re going to Dhermi for the beach, it’s best to stay near the water. You really need a vehicle to get back and forth between the village and beach, and parking is limited (and expensive) by the water.
I like Elysium Hotel in Dhermi.
6. Borsh
Borsh is known for having one of the longest beaches in Albania. It’s nearly 7 km long with bright blue water, and olive groves and mountains behind. Even during high season Borsh Beach is relatively uncrowded.
This is a very small village, with the main part on the mountainside by the highway and the beach area below. It looks very quiet, but one of my taxi drivers told me there are some big beach parties in Borsh and there used to be a techno music festival in Borsh each year.
I’m not sure if the festival is still going, but I would check to make sure it’s not when you’re planning to visit.
This is one place I haven’t stayed on the Albanian Riviera, and I’m not sure that I would, but it is on my list for a daytrip. Villa Hadhri Borsh is where I recommend – it’s beachfront.
7. Orikum
Orikum is a very small town just south of Vlore. This part of the Riviera is very flat, so great if you don’t want to deal with steep walks or drives.
I’ve visited Orikum on my way to the Orikum Archeological Park. The town itself is not attractive – lots of communist era apartment blocks. The beach area is cuter with a small strip of cafes and restaurants.
To me, it doesn’t feel very Rivierish – the beach faces the Karaburun Peninsula, a marine park and protected reserve and also part military base. But, if you want something small and quiet that is closer to Tirana, it could be good.
In all honesty, there’s almost nothing to do in Orikum and it’s not that beautiful. I would stay in Vlore and visit here for the day – maybe combining it with the archeological park.
Bel Ami Suita Hotel has a good location close to beach.
8. Vuno
Vuno is one of the most beautiful villages on the Albanian Riviera and still an off the beaten path gem. Stone houses and cobblestone streets wind up and down the mountain side – it’s very charming.
You will need a car if you stay here. Jala Beach is 5.5 km away and while the village has a couple of eateries, you may want to hop into nearby Himare for more choice. Vuno is perfect to get away from it all – it’s still very local and undeveloped.
Villa Filip is a simple, but clean guest house with amazing views of the coastline.
9. Lukove
This is another quiet and charming hillside village, similar in size to Vuno. It also has limited amenities, but if you’re looking for one of least touristy spots to stay on the Albanian Riviera, this would be it. The nearest main city is Saranda, about 20 km south.
Lukova Beach is very tranquil and a local favourite. It’s surrounded by olive and orange trees.
Lukove is great if you have a car and want to explore the coast and try different beaches. There are several beautiful ones within a 10 minute drive.
I recommend staying at Selami Sea View Apartments in the village.
Last Words on Where to Stay on the Albanian Riviera
Whether you want to stay in a lively city, beach resort town or quiet mountain village, you’ll find it on the Albanian Riviera. My personal favourites are Saranda and Himare, but no matter where you stay, there will be beautiful beaches and excellent seafood.
