Is Permet Worth Visiting?
Is Permet worth visiting? Yes, this under the radar gem in Albania deserves to be on your itinerary. Not only is Permet one of Albania’s prettiest cities, it’s surrounded by stunning nature and is a major slow food destination.
I went to Permet to explore the slow food scene, but discovered the city is also an amazing location for active nature lovers. Cycling, river rafting, mountain and canyon hiking, natural hot springs – Permet has it all!
Why Permet Is Worth Visiting
Permet is quiet compared to other cities in southern Albania, particularly those on the Albanian Riviera and Gjirokaster. You won’t run into the crowds of Saranda or Ksamil, and prices are lower.
While Permet itself only has a handful of attractions, its location in the Vjosa River Valley means there is plenty to do around the city: hiking, cycling, river rafting and visiting the Benje Hot Springs. It’s one of the best destinations in Albania for nature lovers.
This is also the slow food capital of Albania, with many restaurants participating in the movement. You can eat very well in Permet, and for a fraction of what it would cost in Tirana or Saranda.
How to Get to Permet
Permet is well connected and easy to reach from many Albanian cities. Here’s how to get to Permet:
- Bus: There are direct buses from Saranda, Vlore, Korce and Tirana to Permet. Check the Gjirafa Travel website for schedules (it’s not always 100% accurate – but close enough to give you a good idea).
- Private Transfer: Almost all taxis in Albania offer private transfers between cities. For transfers from Tirana or nearby I use Taxi Landi. Otherwise I get quotes from local taxis by asking them directly.
- Renting a Car & Driving: I drove to Permet from Saranda and it was straightforward and scenic. In Albania I always rent cars through Discover Cars.
Where to Stay in Permet
Make sure you stay in the centre, especially if you don’t have a car. I rented an Airbnb in Permet which looked like it was very central, but it was a 15 minute walk to the centre because there was no direct road. It’s a good idea to check the walking route!
Two of these hotels are in the historic part of Permet – a quiet area with cobblestone streets. It’s just behind the centre – 5 minutes on foot. If you’re driving be aware the streets in the historic neighbourhood are narrow.
- Villa Permet: Charming guest house in the old city, 5 minutes walk to the centre. It’s the best option for a more upscale, but traditional stay. The location is quiet and there’s a beautiful terrace for breakfast. Doubles from $100 USD, including breakfast and parking.
- Mosaic House: Small, family run guest house in the old city on a cobblestone street. It’s a historic home built in the 1800s, but rooms are updated and comfortable. From $50 USD, including breakfast. Not a great place if you’re driving, but there is a parking spot.
- White Villa: New, small hotel with a great location on the main street. If you have a car it’s ideal because there’s an empty lot next door where you can park. My daughter stayed here and we were both impressed with it. Balconies with mountain views. Fantastic value with rooms starting at $29 USD.
How Long Should You Stay in Permet?
I spent 4 days in Permet, but you don’t need that long. Two days is probably enough for most visitors.
That would give you enough time to see the sites, do an excursion to the mineral baths, hike or go rafting, and enjoy a couple of meals at the slow food restaurants.
Do You Need a Car in Permet?
You don’t need a car to see the sites in Permet – the city is small and very walkable. But I think the best sites are outside of Permet and it would be much easier to reach them with a car.
Benje Hot Springs, Langarica Canyon and Saint Mary’s Church in Leus are outside of the city. If you don’t have a car you could take a taxi, or take a half day or full day tour to the thermal baths and canyon.
Here’s a highly rated half-day tour from Permet to the Benja Thermal Baths.
What to Do in Permet
I noticed most businesses close for several hours in the afternoon. I was pretty confused about this, until I realized it was ‘siesta,’ the afternoon break. Some smaller cities and those on the Riviera still do this. Keep this in mind when you’re there!
Here’s what you can do in Permet:
1. Climb the Permet City Stone
The Permet City Stone is a natural limestone block that formed millions of years ago by breaking apart from Mount Dhembel during an earthquake.
There’s stairs and you can climb to the top for amazing views of Permet and the Vjosa River Valley. At the top there’s ruins of a 4th century fort. It’s free and well worth the 100 stairs.
2. Stroll Through the Historic Centre
Just a couple of streets over from the centre of Permet is the historic neighbourhood which was built in the early 19th century. It is a quiet area of narrow lanes and cobblestone streets with traditional stone and slate roofed houses.
3. Eat Slow Food
Permet is the slow food capital of Albania. Slow food is an international movement that promotes local and traditional food using sustainable farming methods.
When I was there I ate at as many slow food restaurants in Permet as I could. My favourite was Te Culi – the food was delicious, fresh and the location of the restaurant beside the Vjosa River is lovely.
4. Take Xhiro on the Promenades
Xhiro is the evening stroll, and it is an Albanian tradition. Once the sun starts to dip, the streets and outdoor cafes fill with people.
Permet has two main areas for xhiro, the area around Rruga Sami Frasheri by the main square (it is closed off to traffic in the evenings), and the pedestrian promenade by the river.
5. View the Frescoes in Saint Mary’s Church
This was another highlight of my trip to Permet. Saint Mary’s Church is located in the village of Leus, 2.8 from Permet.
It was built in the 18th century and has some of the most spectacular frescoes I’ve seen in a church, anywhere. Even the exterior porch is fully painted, though these frescoes are worn and vandalized in places.
The church is often locked and I walked up toward the village to find the caretaker (big blue door). I think I woke him from a nap, but he eventually came and unlocked the church for us.
The entrance to the church is a little confusing – it’s through the double wooden doors of the cemetery.
Until recently you had to hike or use a 4×4 to reach the church, but the road is fully paved now. There’s not much parking and I had to park on a steep incline, but at least it’s fully drivable!
6. Visit the Benje Hot Springs
It is worth visiting Permet just to see these natural mineral baths. I think this is one of the best things to do in Albania, and it’s only 14 km from Permet.
These are a series of wild hot springs located in the Vjosa River Valley beside an 18th century stone Ottoman bridge. They range in depth and temperature, but none are overly hot. The setting is absolutely stunning with the stone bridge on one side and mountains on the other.
7. Hike the Langarica Canyon
This is one of the most well known hiking routes in Albania. The canyon starts at the Kadiu Bridge, beside the Benje Hot Springs and continues along paths and the riverbed for nearly 6 km. It’s a one-way route.
The canyon is very steep and narrow in places and prone to flooding in rain. It’s important to hike it only in fine weather.
A couple I met at the springs told me they had wanted to hike the canyon that day, but the guide wouldn’t take them because of a chance of rain.
8. Get Active Rafting or Cycling
There is all kinds of rafting and cycling around Permet. Permet is right on the Vjosa River, and the SH75 road winds along it with spectacular views. When I drove it I saw all kinds of cyclists and several big rafts on the river.
There are several outfitters on the road just outside Permet. Albania Rafting Tours is a reputable company that offers cycling and rafting trips.
Where to Eat in Permet
There’s lots of good restaurants in Permet thanks to its status as a slow food destination. This is one of the big reasons it’s worth visiting Permet, and the main reason I went.
My favourite restaurants were:
- Te Culi: Small slow food restaurant with a charming location near the Vjosa River. Terrific food.
- Bar Restorant Aned: Family run, and very welcoming. It’s a simple place, but food is fresh and delicious. Very generous glass of wine, too!
- Restorant Familjari: Excellent slow food restaurant with lots of traditional dishes.
Last Words on Is Permet Worth Visiting
Permet is worth visiting if you are looking for a scenic city away from the tourist crowds, or if you want a more active holiday.
Before I visited Permet I had no idea it was an adventure tourism destination. I went for the slow food restaurants as part of my agritourism road trip around Albania. I was surprised to see so many cyclists, hikers and rafts on the river.
What really impressed me about Permet was the beautiful scenery and slower pace. After coming from Saranda I appreciated the lower prices too.
