Is Pogradec Worth Visiting?
Chances are if you’re looking at south-eastern Albania, you’re probably trying to figure out if Pogradec is worth visiting. And the short answer is yes, but it won’t be for everyone.
Don’t get me wrong – Pogradec is a really nice small city, and its location on Lake Ohrid is gorgeous. But, some visitors may find Pogradec too quiet and laid back.
I spent 11 days in Pogradec with my dog (we both enjoyed it), and I’m going to give you the information you need to decide if it’s worth visiting Pogradec.
Is Pogradec Worth Visiting?
I completely enjoyed Pogradec and the laid back vibe, but it may be too quiet for some visitors. Apart from the activities and beauty of Lake Ohrid, there’s only a handful of sites in Pogradec. But if you’re after an unhurried, relaxing destination Pogradec is an excellent choice.
When you look at my photos, keep in mind I visited in mid October. There was a lot of rain and clouds, and the summer activities had all been packed away.
If you’re trying to decide between Korce and Pogradec, read this!
Why Pogradec is Worth Visiting
Here’s why I think Pogradec is worth adding to your Albania itinerary:
1. Beautiful Location on Lake Ohrid
Lake Ohrid is the heart and soul of Pogradec. Unlike some waterfront cities, the centre of Pogradec is right beside the lake. There’s parks, a wonderful promenade, cafes and restaurants.
You are never far from the lake in Pogradec, and can see it almost constantly even if you aren’t beside it.
2. Lake Ohrid is a UNESCO World Heritage Site
The Albanian side of Lake Ohrid was added to the UNESCO World Heritage list in 2019 (the North Macedonian side of Lake Ohrid has been UNESCO since 1979).
Lake Ohrid is one of the deepest and oldest lakes in Europe. Pile dwellings and boundary walls from up to 8,500 years ago have been found 3 metres under the lake near Pogradec.
Lake Ohrid is home to exceptional biodiversity and endemic species not found anywhere else. That, combined with the ancient settlements found at Lin, make the Albanian side of Lake Ohrid an important natural and cultural heritage site.
3. Pogradec is Budget Friendly
Compared to popular destinations like waterfront cities on the Albanian Riviera, Berat or Tirana, Pogradec is much cheaper.
Here are examples of prices in Pogradec:
- Hotel: $67 USD for a double room in summer, including breakfast at Seven Cafe & Hotel, one of the best hotels in Pogradec
- Meals: $11 USD for a large vegetarian pizza at Piceri Rinia, $7 USD for a bowl of stew, salad and bread at a local restaurant
- Museum entrance: $1.20 USD at the Pogradec Museum
- Taxi from centre to bus station: $6 USD, and the driver helped with my giant suitcase
- Bus to Tirana: $7.25 USD bus fare
The museum was the only time I had to pay an entrance fee in Pogradec. All the other sites are free, including National Park of Drilon.
4. Pogradec is Great for Families
Pogradec is perfect for families. It’s a small city, very walkable and safe. Locals are extremely welcoming and friendly.
To keep children busy there’s lots of parks, including a couple of Luna parks by the lake (they have mini rides for small children), sandy beaches with waterslides, the lake for swimming, and a long promenade perfect for strollers and bicycles.
National Park of Drilon is 5 km from the centre, which is a favourite spot for local families.
Many hotels have family rooms (some with bunk beds, like Hotel Hymeti’s Palace), and there’s inexpensive kid friendly food like pizza and chicken. And the tap water is drinkable!
5. You Can Drink the Tap Water
Pogradec has its own spring water sources, so you can drink the tap water. There’s even spring water taps in the centre where you can fill up your water bottle.
My Airbnb host told me the water was fine to drink, and my dog and I both drank it for 11 days without any issues.
6. Locals are Friendly
Albanian people are famous for their hospitality and welcoming nature. Everyone I encountered in Pogradec was friendly and helpful.
I usually had my dog with me, and many locals would try to get his attention and giggle about his size (he’s smaller than most cats).
Hotel staff were happy to show me rooms and let me tour the properties, restaurant staff were friendly, the fellow at the museum gave me a personal tour of the exhibits, and my Airbnb host was super helpful.
7. Pogradec is Cooler in Summer
Because of its higher elevation and proximity to Lake Ohrid, Pogradec experiences cooler summer temperatures than much of Albania.
The weather in Pogradec is usually about 3° Celsius cooler than destinations on the coast, Tirana and popular locations like Berat.
8. Pogradec is Off the Tourist Trail
Most tourists head to the beaches of Saranda or Ksamil, or the mountain towns of Berat or Gjirokaster, completely ignoring this region of Albania. Which is wonderful for anyone willing to explore it, because it’s a beautiful area.
Albanians have been holidaying in Pogradec for decades, but the city does not get many foreign visitors. In fact, during the Communist regime, Pogradec was a designated state-approved tourist destination, and the dictator Enver Hoxha had a villa there.
Although Pogradec does get busy in summer, you won’t encounter crowds or lineups. Tourism is still a relatively new concept in Pogradec.
Cons of Visiting Pogradec
I really enjoyed Pogradec, but there are a few things to be aware of:
- There aren’t a lot of attractions or sites, and the best ones are out of town (you’ll need a car) – such as the village of Lin, the Royal Tombs of Selca or National Park of Drilon.
- There’s not a lot of night life. There are plenty of places to relax and get a drink, but in terms of clubs or dance places I didn’t see any. The only spot that looked like it would be lively in summer was the Sherlock Irish Pub.
- It’s not as well connected by bus as other Albanian destinations (but there is good service to and from Tirana, Durres and Korce).
- Off season a lot of restaurants close. My dining options in mid October were limited.
- It can be hard to find a rental car in Pogradec. There aren’t many rental agencies, and most will only rent for a minimum of 2 or 3 days. I ended up renting a car off the books from a guy my Airbnb host knew.
What to Do in Pogradec
The best thing to do in Pogradec is to enjoy Lake Ohrid. This is the main reason visitors come to Pogradec, and the lake is gorgeous. You can go boating, rent paddle boats, swim, enjoy the sandy beaches and stroll the long lakefront promenade.
Other activities include visiting churches, exploring the historic neighbourhood of Toplec, visiting the Museum of Pogradec, and hiking up to Pogradec Castle. If you have a car you can drive to the lovely village of Lin and the Royal Tombs of Selca or National Park of Drilon.
My guide to Pogradec has more information on these sites and what else to do in Pogradec.
How to Get to Pogradec
You can get to Pogradec by bus, private transfer (taxi), or self-drive. Albania has extremely limited rail service, and there is no train to Pogradec.
By Bus
There are direct buses to Pogradec from many of Albania’s cities. Both Tirana (East Gate Bus Terminal) and Durres have multiple buses each day. There are also buses from Vlore, Berat and Korce.
Check this website for bus schedules and routes. It’s not always 100% exact, but it’s close enough to give you a very good idea. I use this site all the time.
By Private Transfer (Taxi)
Just about any local taxi will do a private intercity transfer. It’s the easiest, but more expensive option. I’ve used Taxi Landi several times for intercity transfers and they’ve been great. They’re also pet friendly.
Driving to Pogradec
It’s easy to drive to Pogradec – it’s right off the SH3 highway.
I’ve driven to Pogradec from both Korce and Elbasan. It’s a pretty drive from Elbasan, but mountainous. If you’re coming from Tirana, you’ll probably take that route.
There is plenty of street parking in Pogradec, and most hotels and guest houses include parking with the room rate.
Where to Stay in Pogradec
It’s best to stay in the centre, close to the lake. I stayed in an Airbnb off Rruga Rinia and it was a fantastic location. Here’s the link to the Airbnb I stayed at: Pogradec 1 bedroom Airbnb.
Even though I stayed in an Airbnb, I visited and toured several hotels. These were my favourites, and they are all well located:
- Seven Cafe & Hotel: My top choice. Small boutique hotel in restored mansion across the street from Lake Ohrid. Beautiful and charming property in an excellent location. Rooms from $70 USD, including breakfast. No onsite parking.
- Hotel Hymeti’s Palace: Considered to be the best hotel in Pogradec. 4 star property in the centre, just a few metres from Lake Ohrid. There is a restaurant, gym, and wellness centre. Rooms from $100 USD with breakfast and parking included.
- Perla Hotel: Lakefront location on the quieter end of the promenade. This is a very good 3 star hotel, within walking distance of everything. Rooms from $70 USD, including breakfast and parking.
Where to Eat in Pogradec
Restaurant choices were a bit limited in October. A lot of places were closed for the season, or not serving food at lunchtime, which is when I usually eat out. These were the places I enjoyed, but you’ll have more options in summer:
- Restaurant Zoica: Simple but delicious home cooking with very friendly service and reasonable prices. Located on Rruga Kajo Karafili.
- Piceri Rinia: A popular spot with locals for traditional food and pizza. I wasn’t overly impressed with the Albanian food, but the pizza was good. Located on Rruga Rinia (upstairs).
- Seasons Bakery: Small bakery that sells American style baked goods like scones, cookies, tarts and cinnamon rolls. Everything is made by the owner and very good. Located in the square by Rruga Naim Frasheri.
- Bar Kafe Konti: Nice cafe and bar with tables right on the beach in front of Lake Ohrid. Located on Rruga Harmonia.
Last Words on Is Pogradec Worth Visiting?
Do I think Pogradec is worth visiting? Yes, if you are in the region and want to see Lake Ohrid, want an unhurried getaway, or are travelling with children. It’s also better for those with a car, because the best sites are outside of the city.
Pogradec is a lovely city, but there’s not a lot of attractions or night life. If that’s okay with you, you’ll probably enjoy Pogradec.
Want itinerary ideas? Here’s how I fit Pogradec into a 5 days in Albania route.
