Guide to Shkoder, Gateway to the Albanian Alps
In this guide I’ll give you all the information you need to visit Shkoder. Whether you’re using Shkoder as a base for hiking in the Albanian Alps, or just visiting the city because of its rich culture, I’ll explain everything you should know to plan your own visit.
Before I drove to Theth, I spent 15 days in Shkoder. You certainly don’t need to stay that long in Shkoder (you can see the sites in a day or two), but I always like to do a deeper exploration.
Guide to Shkoder, Gateway to the Albanian Alps
You’ll find everything in this guide to help you plan the perfect visit to Shkoder. Whether you’re using Shkoder as a jumping off point to hike in Albanian Alps or not, Shkoder is worth visiting for a few days.
Why Visit Shkoder?
Shkoder is Albania’s largest city in the north. It’s the closest major city to two of Albania’s top alpine destinations, Theth and Valbona. But it’s also one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the Balkan region, and considered the historic capital of Albania.
There are a few things that make Shkoder different from other Albanian cities.
For one, it’s extremely bike friendly, in fact some Albanians call Shkoder the Amsterdam of Albania. There are bikes, bike lanes and bike repair shops everywhere. When crossing the roads, I had to watch out for cyclists more than drivers!
Despite being surrounded by mountains, Shkoder is very flat, ideal for cycling. When I was there I rented a bike and took it around the lake, checking out the former king’s abandoned villa and lakeside towns.
There is a lot of nature around Shkoder. It’s located at the foot of the Dinaric Alps, and on the other side are the confluence of 3 rivers and Lake Shkodra, one of Europe’s largest lakes.
It’s also a very Christian city, with more churches than mosques – unusual for Albania. You’ll hear church bells all day long in Shkoder.
Using Shkoder as a Base for Hiking in the Albanian Alps
Two of Albania’s most famous hiking towns are accessible from Shkoder: Theth and Valbona. Most hikers come here to do the Theth – Valbona hike, but each village has other hiking routes also.
If you want to hike the Teth – Valbona mountain pass, the preferable way is from Valbona to Teth. It’s easier. I recommend leaving any large baggage in storage at your hotel or guest house in Shkoder, and taking one backpack.
The easiest and most scenic way to reach Valbona is by taking the Komani Lake ferry to Fierze. This water route takes you through one of the most beautiful river valleys in the world.
You can book all your transportation (bus from Shkoder to Lake Komani ferry dock, bus from Fierze to Valbona, bus from Theth back to Shkoder) through Berisha Ferry.
Stay overnight in Valbona, hike the trail the next day, stay overnight in Theth, then return to Shkoder on the bus (you don’t need a guide to do this hike).
It sounds complicated, but it’s really easy. This is a lot faster than driving to Valbona, which is almost 5 hours from Shkoder because there’s no direct road through the mountains.
When to Visit Shkoder
The best time to visit Shkoder is shoulder season: April 15 to June 1, and September and October. It’s a bit cooler and less crowded at those times. These are also the best times for hiking in the alps.
June and July are hot (it can go up to and over 40 C – 104 F), while winters can be cool and rainy.
How Many Days Do You Need in Shkoder?
You can easily see the sites of Shkoder in two days. Shkoder is not large, and doesn’t have a long list of things to see. Apart from Shkodra Lake and Rozafa Castle, all the sites are in the centre, and you can walk to them.
If you want to visit Lake Koman, add an extra day. It’s a full day trip, unless you do it on your way to Valbona.
Where is Shkoder
Shkoder is in northern Albania, very close to the border with Montenegro. In fact you can bike to the border easily from Shkoder.
It’s 76 km from Theth and 187 km from Valbona (but considerably shorter if you take the ferry to Fierze), in the Albanian Alps. These are the two most popular mountain villages for hiking in Albania. This is why Shkoder is called the gateway to the Albanian Alps.
From Tirana, Shkoder 98 km north, less than a 2 hour drive.
Guide on How to Get to Shkoder
You can get to Shkoder by car or bus. There is no train.
From Tirana
By Bus: There are direct buses from both of Tirana’s bus terminals (South North Bus Terminal and East Gate Terminal). Fare is 500 lek ($6 USD), and it takes 2 hours. It’s best to buy your ticket from the bus driver. You’ll need cash.
There are buses all day from both terminals (the South North Bus Terminal is the closest to the Tirana Airport and the centre). You can check the schedule on the Gjirafa Travel website, but buses may not leave exactly on schedule.
Airport Shuttle: There is an airport shuttle that leaves from the parking lot outside the airport terminal. Cost is 1000 lek ($12 USD), and there are 5 daily departures. Check the Hermes Airport Shuttle website for the schedule.
There’s also a shared taxi service TOTA from the airport to Shkoder. Prices start at 2000 lek ($24 USD). You have to contact them ahead of arriving to book it.
By Taxi (Private Transfer): Airport taxis charge 7000 lek ($85 USD) to drive to Shkoder. I missed the last airport shuttle the last time I was travelling to Shkoder from the airport and took a taxi. The drive was 1.5 hours and he took me right to my Airbnb.
It would cost around the same from the Tirana centre to Shkoder. I use Taxi Lux when in Tirana. I recommend booking the taxi in advance and confirming the price.
From Theth
By Bus: There are passenger vans (furgons) that depart from the Mini Market Jezerca at 11:00 am and 5:00 pm daily. It cost 1200 lek ($14.50) and takes about 2 hours to reach Shkoder.
You can find the bus information on the Ferry Berisha website.
By Taxi (Private Transfer): I’ve never take a private transfer between Theth and Shkoder. I would check Electrik Taxi based in Shkoder and also daytrip (a professional transfer service).
This could be an expensive transfer ($200 USD), as Theth is tiny and most drivers will have to come from Shkoder. I also recommend asking at your Theth guest house, because sometimes people share taxis.
From Montenegro
By Bus: There are daily buses from Podgorica, Budva and Kotor, Montenegro to Shkoder. Check the Gjirafa Travel website for bus schedules, but buy your tickets at the station or from the bus driver.
There are no buses from Bar to Shkoder.
By Taxi (Private Transfer): Prices will range depending on where in Montenegro you are, but from Bar the cost 6500 lek ($80 USD). Book your transfer in advance because drivers need special insurance to cross the border.
Check local taxi companies, or Taxi Landi (Albanian based transfer service I have used several times), or daytrip.
How to Get Around Shkoder Guide
Shkoder is small, and unless you are staying far from the centre you’ll be able to walk to most places.
There is a public bus that runs through the city between Bahcallek and Fermentim. This is the one that stops near Rozafa Castle. Bus fare is 40 lek ($0.50 USD). It’s supposed to run every half hour during the week, but I rarely saw it go past.
Taxis charge 300 lek ($3.65 USD) within the city or to Rozafa Castle, and 500 lek ($6 USD) to Shiroka on Lake Shkodra. I used Elektrik Taxi in Shkoder.
Most people get around on bikes in Shkoder. There are many places you can rent bikes from. The going rate is 500 lek ($6 USD)/day. I rented my bike from Anna Tours on Rruga Edith Durham.
What to do in Shkoder
1. Hike Up to Rozafa Castle: Ancient hilltop castle overlooking the city, Lake Shkodra and the confluence of 3 rivers. This is Shkoder’s most popular attraction.
Go early because they get a lot of tour buses. Wear sensible shoes – the cobblestones can be slippery and very uneven. Honestly, it’s harder going downhill on the cobblestones than uphill.
2. Stroll Old Town: Quaint historic area with cobblestone streets, lots of cafes and restaurants. The main pedestrian road goes through the centre, Rruga Kole Idromeno.
At night this is the liveliest part of Shkoder. It’s where the bars are located. If you’re looking for some nightlife, this is where to come.
3. Visit Site of Witness and Memory: Museum dedicated to the Shkoder victims of communism. It’s located in a former Ministry of Interior building used as a prison and detention centre.
The prison cells and ‘investigation’ rooms are part of the museum. It’s interesting, but has an eerie energy.
4. Bike to Shkodra Lake: I rented a bike and cycled to Shkodra Lake from the centre. It’s not far, only 2 km, and most of it is bike lanes.
The lake is pretty to bike around. I stopped in the village of Shiroka to see King Zog’s abandoned villa and enjoy a coffee at one of the lakeside cafes. If you keep going a few km you’ll bike right into Montenegro.
5. View the Paintings at St. Francis Church: There is a series of unique anti-communist paintings in this historic church.
During communism (when religion was outlawed), the Sigurmi (secret police), accused the Franciscan priests of hiding a stash of guns and ammunition. The priests insisted the stash had been planted by the Sigurmi, but were imprisoned anyway.
After democracy, the paintings were commissioned and hung in the church. One is even called ‘the Great Lie.’ They’re very interesting.
6. Take a Free Walking Tour: I took the free walking tour through GuruWalk, which lasted 2 hours. Our guide gave us a lot of information about Shkoder’s history and shared insights only locals have.
It was a great way to get acclimated and see the highlights.
Guide to Day Trips From Shkoder
These are the best day trips from Shkoder – the ones you can actually do in a day. Velipoja Beach and Lezhe are easy to do independently, while it’s more practical to visit Komani Lake by booking a tour.
Lake Komani & the Shala River
If you only take one day tour from Shkoder, visit Komani Lake and the Shala River. Komani Lake is one of the best things to see in Albania, the scenery is spectacular.
Lake Komani is a man-made lake resulting from a huge dam on the Drin River. The Shala River feeds into it and is often dubbed the Thailand of Albania for the magnificent limestone cliffs the river winds through.
It’s possible to visit Lake Koman and the Shala River by ferry. You can book your ferry tickets and return transportation through Berisha Ferry. I took the Shala River tour through them and it was a great day.
Velipoja Beach
When Shkoder locals want a beach day they visit Velipoja Beach. It’s a pebbly beach on the Adriatic Sea, very close to the border with Montenegro.
The beach is organized, with sun beds and umbrellas you can rent, and restaurants.
It was an American expat running a hostel in Shkoder that told me about the beach. He goes regularly in summer by taking the bus from Kinema Republika on Bulevardi Skenderbeu. Fare is 200 lek ($2.45 USD) and it takes 45 minutes.
Lezhe
If you’re looking for an easy day trip from Shkoder this is a good one. There’s buses back and forth all day, and it only takes 45 minutes. I drove here, but parked the car and just walked everywhere.
Lezhe is an ancient city, and the site of a historic battle between the Albanians and Ottoman empire in the 13th century. Visit Lezhe Castle, the tomb of Skanderbeg, Orthodox Church of Lezha, or stroll the riverfront promenade.
Guide on Where to Stay in Shkoder
It’s best to stay near Democratic Square, or the historic centre (aka Old Town). That way you can walk everywhere.
If you stay in the historic centre, keep in mind this is where most of Shkoder’s nightlife is, and it can be noisy at night. Avoid staying right on the main pedestrian boulevard, Rruga Kole Idromeno. Instead opt for one of the quieter side lanes.
While I always stay in Airbnbs because I’m in one location for weeks and have my dog with me, I did visit and tour all of these hotels and guesthouses.
Hotel Colosseo: 4 star hotel with excellent location across the street from the Grand Mosque on Rruga Kole Idromeno. This hotel is considered the best in Shkoder. Rooms start from $115 USD, including breakfast and parking. One of the few hotels with an indoor pool.
Rozafa Hotel: The largest 4 star hotel in Shkoder. Very central location within a few minutes walk of all the main sites. Doubles from $90 USD, including breakfast and parking. A bit dated, but comfortable and a brand new tower being built in 2026. Great views from the higher floors.
Cocja Boutique Hotel: Lovely small hotel in the centre. Within a 5 minute walk of the historic area and most sites. Rooms start at $70 USD, including breakfast and parking. Beautiful and stylish property.
Hotel Mozart: New and stylish small hotel 5 minutes walk from the historic centre. Doubles start at $70 USD, including breakfast and parking. Many rooms have large balconies. Has a good gym.
In Town Guest House Shkoder: Exceptional family run guest house in the historic centre. The guest house is in two restored heritage homes. Doubles start at $40 USD, with breakfast. Amazing location on a quiet street in the historic centre.
Scodrinon Hostel: The best hostel in Shkoder. Wonderful location directly on the main pedestrian street in Old Town. Breakfast is included and guests have access to a kitchen and washing machine. Beds start at $18 USD. Terrific views from the rooftop terrace.
Where to Eat in Shkoder
These were my favourite places to eat in Shkoder. Compared to the rest of Albania, especially the south, the food was very hearty. Restaurants serve beef goulash for breakfast!
- Puri: Simple, home style Albanian cooking. Lots of salads, hearty casseroles and meats. There’s usually a line up.
- Pasta te Zenga: Really good pasta made fresh every day.
- Te Nana: Pasta, traditional Albanian food. Away from the tourist zone and popular with locals.
- Marina Seafood by 4VM: Terrific seafood restaurant with very fresh fish. I tried the local specialty baked carp here, it comes from Shkodra Lake.
- Kanelle: Excellent coffee shop with homemade sweets and savoury snacks. I came here a few times.
Last Words on Guide to Shkoder, Gateway to the Albanian Alps
Having been to Albania several times already, I had to check out Shkoder. Albanians seem to have a genuine fondness for Shkoder and always say how beautiful it is. And yes, I agree it is quite lovely.
I did use Shkoder as my starting point for a road trip through the mountains, and this guide will help you plan your own northern Albanian adventure.
