Berat Castle: Guide to Visiting Albania’s Living Castle
Albania has a lot of castles, 158 to be exact! But Berat Castle is different because it has been continuously inhabited for over 2,400 years. About 100 families live behind the medieval walls. It’s one of Europe’s oldest living castles.
If you’re wondering how many days to spend in Berat, most visitors stay two or three nights. That’s enough time to explore the Castle, the old quarters and enjoy the beauty of the city.
Guide to Visiting Berat Castle
One of the highlights of visiting Berat is exploring the fascinating castle quarter. The castle ruins and fortification walls are impressive, but the surrounding neighbourhood of hilly cobblestone streets, traditional stone homes and ancient churches is even more interesting.
Berat Castle is a residential area and never closes. It is open 24/7 and free to visit. Today there are 167 houses, 200-230 residents, 24 towers, 14 churches and 2 mosques within the castle walls.
History of Berat Castle
Berat Castle dates back to the 4th century BC, when it was first built by the ancient Illyrians. It’s the only castle in Albania that has been continuously inhabited ever since.
The Romans conquered and destroyed it around 200 BC, then rebuilt it in the 5th century under Emperor Justinian I. The Byzantines later strengthened the walls, and in the 13th century, the Despot of Epirus, Michael I Komnenos Doukas, restored the fortress once again.
Berat also fell under Bulgarian rule for a time (when the inner citadel was added) before the Ottomans captured it in 1417. They expanded and fortified the castle, and it remained under Ottoman control for centuries.
Today, the hilltop fortress still shelters a small community, with winding lanes, stone houses, and Byzantine churches inside its ancient walls.
In 2008, the historic centre of Berat, including the castle, was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Castle is one of the main reasons Berat is so worth a visit.
What to See at Berat Castle
Citadel: While Berat Castle is the neighbourhood within the castle walls, there is an actual castle. You can stroll along much of the fortification walls, and several towers still stand.
Orthodox Church of Saints Constantine and Helen: Byzantine era church built in 1639. It has frescoes painted in the 15th century. It was closed when I visited, but would definitely be open on its feast day of May 21st.
Church of Saint Mary of Blachernae: Believed to be the main church of an early monastic complex from the 5th century. The church was rebuilt in the 13th century and contains 16th century icons and frescoes painted by Nicholas Onurfi.
Church of Saint Nicholas: Orthodox church built in 1591 with historic frescoes painted by Onurfi featuring scenes from the Old and New Testaments. This church was also closed when I visited in October.
Holy Trinity Church: The most picturesque church in the castle, Holy Trinity sits just below the main fortification walls. It was built in the 13th or 14th centuries. The church is built in a cross formation and is a beautiful example of Byzantine architecture.
Onurfi Iconographic Museum: The museum is in the Assumption of St. Mary Cathedral built in 1797. The church has the most incredible icons and frescoes, many painted by Onurfi and David Salenica – considered the Albanian masters of religious painting. It is truly breathtaking.
Red Mosque: The exact date of construction is unknown, but it was built sometime during the 13th century, and may be the oldest Islamic building in Berat. Most of the mosque is in ruins, but the minaret is still standing, which is remarkable.
Orthodox Church of Saint George: Originally built in the 1800s, the church is a victim of communism. Like make religious buildings during that time, it was repurposed and reconstructed. Today only the ground floor of the original church remains. The second story was destroyed and rebuilt as a government residence.
Cafes and Restaurants: There are several highly rated restaurants within the castle walls. Klea Restaurant, Bujtina Bega Traditional Food and Temi Albanian Food are popular.
Viewing Platform: About halfway between the Church of Saint Michael (one of the best things to see in Berat) and the castle, is a viewing platform with terrific aerial views of Berat and the Osum River. You can access it from Saint Michael’s (going up), or from the castle (going down).
Tips for Visiting
Make sure you wear good walking shoes! The cobblestones streets are steep and can be very slippery, especially if it’s raining. Apparently, the white stones are more slippery – so try to step on the dark ones.
I tried to use Google maps to find everything, but it was not great in the labyrinth of ancient lanes and cobblestone stairs. Eventually I just wandered around until I had seen the historic sites. Signage is hit and miss in the castle.
If I was going to do this again, I would take a guided tour of the castle. It would have made it a lot easier and given more context to everything I saw.
Many of the churches were locked and if you have a local guide, he’ll be able to speak to the residents. You’ll have a much better chance of figuring out who has the church key and how to get inside.
I highly recommend this 3 hour Berat Castle private tour with Bruno of Berat Free Tours. Bruno is a fantastic guide and the tour is only $30 USD a person.
How to Get to Berat Castle
It’s easy to get to Berat Castle by car or on foot. The easiest way, if you are driving or walking is to head straight up Rruga Mihal Komnena (the road that Hotel Mangalemi is located on).
Just follow it straight up, and it will take you right to the main entrance of the castle. If you’re walking, there’s a pedestrian lane about mid-way up.
There’s a parking lot in front of the castle entrance at the top of Rruga Mihal Komnena.
If you’re walking you can also access Berat Castle from Saint Michael’s, but it’s a steep climb. It does go past the Berat viewing platform though, and the views are phenomenal.
If you’re travelling from Tirana to Berat, it’s easy to drive, take the bus, or book a private transfer.
Where to Eat
There are several cafes and restaurants within the castle. Klea Restaurant, Bujtina Bega Traditional Food and Temi Albanian Food are highly rated.
However, I prefer to eat away from popular tourist areas. The food and prices are almost always better. Two of my favourite places to eat in Berat are:
- Eni Traditional Food: Delicious home style food on the Gorica side of Berat. The meatballs in onion sauce are excellent.
- Zgara Zaloshnja: Small and cozy restaurant serving traditional food in the centre. They make an excellent Berati i Vienez (the local specialty).
Where to Stay
If you’re looking for places to stay in Berat, there are guesthouses and small hotels within Berat Castle.
Keep in mind the castle area is usually very busy during the day, and parking and driving can be challenging. It is very atmospheric though, and peaceful once the tour groups leave.
KRIS Guesthouse: Lovely guesthouse within the castle walls full of traditional charm. Breakfast and parking are included. Rooms from $50 USD.
Villa Sophie Berat Castle: An updated traditional stone home within the castle walls. Rooms from $50 USD, including breakfast. No parking.
Hotel Mangalemi: Lovely small hotel in a historic building in the centre of Berat. It’s at the bottom of the road that leads directly to the castle, so an excellent location without staying within the castle walls. Rooms from $60 USD, including breakfast. No parking.
Best Time to Visit
I don’t usually say summer is the best time to visit anywhere in Europe, but it is actually the best time to visit Berat Castle. Many of the churches are closed during the off season, and you’ll have a better chance of seeing them in summer.
However, this is peak tourist season and Berat Castle is the number one attraction in the area – so go early in the day to avoid the crowds and the heat.
The castle doesn’t close, so you can access it early, but not everything will be open before 9 am.
Shoulder season is also good, especially for more pleasant weather, but not everything will be open. When I visited in October the churches and some cafes were closed.
FAQs About Visiting Berat Castle
Yes, Berat Castle is worth visiting. It is the only continuously inhabited castle in Albania and one of the oldest in Europe.
Berat Castle is free to enter. It is a residential area as well as a historic castle, so there is no fee and it is open 24/7.
Berat is famous for its distinctive white stone houses with closely spaced windows, giving it the name ‘City of a Thousand Windows.’ The historic centre is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Last Words on Berat Castle: Guide to Visiting Albania’s Living Castle
What makes Berat Castle special isn’t just its age or architecture, it’s the living neighbourhood that fills the narrow lanes.
Watching locals go about their day within the ancient walls reminded me that Berat Castle isn’t frozen in time. It’s still very much alive, and that’s what makes it unforgettable.
